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Ok, I might try and remove the inner part of the tube on the other one sometime. Do you happen to know if there's a difference between the 320 and 352 manifolds vs. heads? The manifolds and heads have different part numbers for the different engines but I am unsure the practical difference between them.

As I recall, the 320 had a 2brl carburetor while the 352, at least on some models, was 4brl so they would have a different part number. Unfortunately I don’t know if there are differences in the tube or not.

The 55 Clipper Deluxe and Super used the 320 V8 and a Carter 4V carburetor. The 55 Custom Clippers used the 352 V8 and a Rochester 4V carburetor. The 56 Deluxe Clippers used a 2V carburetor. Don't know about the other models in the Clipper line for that year.

I believe that for 1956, the Deluxe and Super both had the 2brl carburetor while the Custom such as mine had the 4brl Carter.

That sounds right, Don. It's worth noting that the 352 that came with the car was a Carter carb used only on the 320's. So it should be a direct fit for the 320 engine I'm going to put it on.

I'm more wondering about the heads. Need to read the parts list closer.

'56 Clipper Deluxe and Super 352's with 2V carbs used a Carter 2393S. I've rebuilt them on both models. '56 Customs and Executives with 352 engine use Carter WCFB 4bbl.

The carb rebuild kit came in today for my carb. I am rebuilding the carb that came on the original engine (not the one off the spare engine I got). Main reason being that the original carb was a 4 barrel WCFB but the other one was a two barrel off a Nash 320 engine. More power, better economy, etc...

I bought it from The Carburetor Shop whereas I bought my 400 4GC one from Chicago Carb. The kit seems very complete, though no instructions were included (fortunately Chicago Carb has them for free), of course the Service Manual has instructions but they can be a bit confusing for people not already familiar with every carburetor term. It was also supplied with traditional needle valves instead of the newer style Daytona valves, though this will not exactly be a high performance vehicle so I doubt the difference will be very noticeable.

Even getting the thing off the manifold was quite a chore and I document the process here.

We had a 56 clipper super with a 2 barrel. Damn good mileage.

Quote:

I'm making an educated guess that since the intake gasket set is the same on all engines except 56 352, that the 55 intake manifolds differed only in carburetor compatibility. Not sure if the actual casting and mounting lugs were different for different carbs, or just the heat pipe. When I am home later I can check.

I made some good progress on my Clipper yesterday. I'm prepping it to pull out the old engine/trans and drop in ones that I will be rebuilding soon. This is covered in the Fenders and Sheetmetal section of the manual, but mostly without pictures.

The first step is to remove the splasher held on with 20 screws. Be careful when removing these as the ones in the grille can damage it if they are stuck (note the left side is broken). They are basically held in with speed nuts / clip nuts spaced around.




Next remove the wires from the junction blocks. This varies based on whether you are taking off the side fenders or not. The running lights should be disconnected to take off the grille. The rest can stay attached if you're not pulling the side fenders off the car, but I disconnected the wiring harnesses anyway to make it easier later if I decide to do that.




Next, remove the headlight doors.

Next, remove the 6 nuts holding the side trim on. There is a rubber washer behind each nut. Two are shown here and the other 4 are accessible in the wheel well. They are just studs that bottom out in the trim so sometimes the whole stud will come off. Also, there's one on the driver side that might be slightly different because of the radio bracket.




Next, remove the two side bolts on the grille. The bolt and nut are both 7/16". This and the next steps may be eased by removing the headlight assembly (4 Phillips screws).

Next, remove the two bolts under the headlight. These are usually very rusty so good luck. I was able to remove only the outer bolt on both sides. The inner I had to cut off with a Sawzall. Fortunately not too difficult to cut, nor replace later.




Then I thought I was done, but I missed two more screws. The passenger side screw was easy to get out. But I think someone must have tweaked the bumper up in the past on the driver's side since I had to use a quite peculiar arrangement to open up a gap enough to get the screw out. And a very specific socket and adapter to angle it in.







Then just removed the radiator and trans cooler after that.

By the way, would you expect much of a problem keeping the car on blocks like this? Obviously they are under the frame, not the body.




P.S. Here is my current "setup". And yes I did all this eork yesterday in constantly raining 45F weather