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Most generators provide the high current ground path to the frame or battery ground connection by virtue of the generator components being connected internally to the generator case. The ground path connection is then provided to the frame or battery by the mounting bracket and bolting hardware. Since the generator is on the engine block and not the frame it is somewhat separated by rubber mounts. Some models with remote battery positions did use a ground strap between the block and frame to get to the battery ground strap.

A small secondary generator ground is only a reference and is usually connected directly to the regulator by virtue of a small gauge wire from a screw on the generator case to either a terminal on the regulator or by connecting to one of the regulator mounting screws. This ground is used only to provide a direct connection to eliminate any potential voltage difference in grounds that might be cause by a poor connection in the mounting bracket or sheetmetal. This reference is needed so the regulator knows exactly what voltage the generator is producing without any added resistance due to a poor metal to metal connection. It is not designed to carry any high current such as that needed to operate the starter or headlights etc.

A heavy ground strap or wire from the generator is not used on any Packards I have seen but it certainly would not hurt if you wanted to add something like a short braided strap between the generator mounting ear to the frame.

Agreed. I have a braided ground cable from the transmission top cap bolt to the frame, (grounding the motor as the motor mounts are rubber and insulate it electrically), then the frame to the battery, like the wiring schematic, and I get full circuit function. The wire mentioned from the generator to the regulator is a back-up one to assure good generator function and is 10AWG.
In the below photos, the ground is the one attached with a small screw to the body of the generator slightly in the background, (I also used it to tap into an accessory ground as it was in a handy spot), in the one of the regulator it can be seen coming out of the harness and going to the screw that mounts the regulator to the firewall.
Slightly different components to yours as remember, mine are from a '53 model, but the circuit is the same.
Bob J.

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Took a break from the wiring.

Put on the windlace on front doors and the door threshold. For the threshold I went with the fender welting. It was a perfect fit after some trimming. I also put the side kick board on the passenger side. Will wait for the driver side until wiring is operable.

It looks really great! The strip on the door sills looks perfect. How did you end up adhering the door panels?

Thanks. I think it turned out pretty good. I went with your recommendation and tried a thin Velcro strip. Gonna see how that goes.

Back to the wiring. So I am testing each terminal for voltage to see if I can find where things are not flowing.

Getting hot reads on:
Both sides of ammeter
Both sides of ignition switch
Horn relay
Solenoid start switch for the opposite ends of horn relay and ammeter
Battery terminal for voltage regulator
All 3 terminals in the two way lamp switch


Where I am not getting a hot read
Passenger side of the starter button and opposite end where it connects to the solenoid starter
“F” “G” “A” on the voltage regulator
And same on the generator.

1. I would think the horn would work since I have voltage at all points and solid connection at horn button
2. I tested on positive and negative on all spots where I did not get a hot read
3. Everything worked prior to my wiring adventure. I did not touch move or change the regulator.

Is there a “reset” for the regulator? Or something else I need to do there? Pierre is hitting it at the one terminal it is just not flowing to the other terminals?

As far as the starter button to solenoid starter. Is there something in that connection that needs to be triggered?

Thoughts appreciated!
Ben

That sounds good as to where you have power. Where you do not also sounds good because unless the engine is running the cutout relay in regulator would be open so nothing on A, F and G or ground.

There is a bit of discrepancy between the factory and AEA wiring diagrams on exactly where a wire connection to the starter switch is located but both agree the voltage comes from the same place.

AEA diagram is easiest to trace and it shows voltage originating at the starter solenoid BAT terminal and going to ammeter via a red wire. AEA shows black wires out of ammeter passing that voltage to the regulator, ign switch, headlight switch input terminal and the starter button. Discrepancy is where the starter button is actually tied to be powered from. AEA has it from ammeter, factory has it from the headlight switch input terminal which comes from ammeter so essentially the same place. You might see if you have power on the power input to the headlight switch.

What can be confusing is the factory originally had the starter being able to crank engine at all times although the engine would not start without the key on. When later models came out with the starter button powered thru the ign switch so it only worked with the key on some changed their earlier cars with always active starters to match later models. In that change the starter switch is fed from the ign sw GA terminal instead of ammeter or light switch. As to not having power on one side of starter switch and solenoid, that would be correct unless the button was pushed. Power on the other side would depend on whether the feed wire came from ammeter or ign sw.

Horns take a lot of current so make sure the feed wire is 12 ga and has good tight terminals. Might also double check to make sure the wires are on the correct relay terminals. B is bat, H is horn and S is the button. If the battery feed is not on the correct relay terminal nothing works.

No reset button on the regulator.

Thanks Howard. This is good. I have a hot reads on everything including the park lights and all the dash lights. They all “turned on” when I touched them with the voltage reader. I checked the horn relay and have the battery (B) connected properly as well as the horn button (H). I pulled the button off to confirm still intact and it is but I think I may resolver that just to confirm all is good on that end.

I have double checked all of the grounds to be sure they are intact with good contact.

I think I am going to move on to finish up the gas tank and exhaust to see if she starts if she does then this will help me narrow in on things. If she doesn’t. Well I guess we cross that bridge if we have too but…..

I hope to see Steelrubber shipment early next week so I can finish the lights.

Wish me luck!
Ben

Quote:

I don't know if that is a typo but if that is how it is currently wired the button should be on S (switch) and horns on H.

Ah. Yes. Sorry. Typo. Good catch. Thanks for checking!