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Happy birthday Blanche! You are looking younger each day!
Bob J.

Got the straps on the tank and fitted with access to the sending unit. Fuel line is next.





Also started the sides on the running board pads.

Running into issues with securing the pads to the running boards. Solid bond on the top but a challenge wrapping the edges. Too much tension that it starts to detach the top side. The rubber is very thick on the corner edges and to get a clean 90 degree turn is looking to be impossible without loosening the bond on the top. I know once installed the edges will naturally be secured as that will be wedged in and the outside secured with the trim. It is the loosening of the top that is the issue.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Photos?

What about a long flat piece of lumber such as a 1 x 6 x approximate length of running board clamped in two or three places to hold the top down while you fold, glue and clamp the edges. Another narrow strip of wood clamped across the board edge could hold one side as it dried before doing the other side. It might even take some stress off the fold and top by using some gentle heat to soften a narrow area of the rubber a bit before the fold.

If the top is wanting to move or separate now am wondering what that says as far as the strength of the overall bond and possibly some lifting or puckering issues down the road. With the edges fixed and unable to move what would happen as the top surface expands or contracts.

Thanks guys. Tx. Pictures above would be the same as what I would post now. I will look to make some adjustments based on this input. At this rate. I would pay Steel if they would vulcanize!

Got some other smaller things done

Put in an Accelerator boot. Bought it from Max.




Installed pedals, carpet and seat.




Was able to get the Heater shut off valve off. Took a little work but got it. New one should be here early this week. Went with the NAPA recommendation.




Had to order the fitting for the fuel Line that routes it through the frame. You can see the threads got a little beat up! Thanks to lead from Big Kev! Joel Ray had another one and that too should be here Monday. Then I will be able to see if she can start!

Quote:
Or if it is loose enough to still pull off maybe clean things up and try epoxy adhesive which some on other forums and one or two here suggested instead of contact cement.

Able to get some things complete but need some advice

Finished up exhaust




Part came in from Joel Ray and I finished the fuel line

Replaced the heater control valve with the part from NAPA. Perfect fit




With everything in place I tried a test start. But no luck. Did not even turn over.
Battery is fully charged.
Double checked wiring
Yes put some gas in tank
Double checked grounds

Lights work so I know power is flowing.

At a bit of a loss on where to start trouble shooting.

Thoughts and guidance very much appreciated.

What is that large red wire near the exhaust for?

I'd get out the test light/volt meter and check for power at the solenoid, and also on the small terminal when the starter button is pressed.


If no power on that small terminal then check for power at the switch.

If you have power at the solenoid and on the small terminal, then either the solenoid is bad (it should click when you press the start button.

Or there is an issue with the starter.

You could try jumping between the two large terminals on the solenoid with jumper cable to see if the starter spins.

Thanks BK

The big red cable is actually the positive from the Battery. My grandmother had the kill switch for the battery installed in the trunk for easy access. Kind of goofy but it worked.

What do you mean by the “small terminal”? I will check for power flow again.

The starter should be fine. The car ran and all was good before I started so I know it is in something I am trying to “fix” as I replace the old with a refresh.