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OK! BK yes correct! Thanks both.

You may not get much of a reading at the sender end of the fuel gauge wire. The gauge unit has resistance. The sender wire has no current unless the gauge is getting power.

Thx TxGoat. So the gas gauge does have power going into it on the Passenger side terminal from the ignition switch. And I get a hot read there. I tested the Gas Gauge with an Ohm reader and it shows activity when touching both sides after removing the wires. Since the Gauge is getting power in, should this in turn be showing power "out" through the Sender wire? Key is turned to on position.

The gauge unit in the dash is a low power device with high internal resistance. While you will have full power at the switch terminal of the gauge with the key on, 6 volts+), the amount of power from the sender terminal on the gauge to ground will be much reduced. The gauge unit should have a specified DC resistance in Ohms, but I don't know what it is. The sending unit's resistance will vary with the fuel level within a specified range. A very small 6 volt bulb, like a dash light bulb, might glow if it was connected to the sender end of the gauge wire and grounded, key on, and the gauge would probably show a reading. If your dash gauge shows continuity on an ohm meter with the sender disconnected and the key off, it's (probably) OK.

When I turn my key on, my gas gauge moves up to "empty" and stays there until I turn the key off. My guess is that my float is missing or full of gasoline, or that the sender is defective.

Verify you have the wires on the correct terminal on the gauge. The BATT terminal on the gauge should have full voltage when the ignition is in the ON position.

Also the gauge itself needs to be grounded. It usually grounds through the dash/cluster structure by the screws that hold it in place. But if you painted anything back there, that could be either blocking ground or giving very high resistance to ground.

Ok. I dropped the tank to go back to the beginning of install
1. Removed the sending unit to test
2. I tested Ohms on sender 0-33 and gauge 32. So these are the same range which is good.
3. Tries different gauge wires for the ground no change.
4. Cleaned up the posts in the back of the gauge. What I noticed where some letters.

Not sure if these mean anything or not.

If you zoom in and look above the post on the right I see letters IGN. This is the right post.

I have the sending unit connected to this post per the instructions.

Do we think the ING is stamped to sho it is the ignition switch side?
Or
Is it marked to show this should be the post connected to the ignition switch?

If the latter it would be reverse of the instructions.

Gene at YnZ said I should switch them if the posts were marked but did not know what the mark would be?

So it may be a stretch but that is where I am at.

Not sure if there is potential damage if I were to reverse the wires in a trial and error?

I think this was Dons original thought?

Thoughts appreciated as always!!

V-I-C-T-O-R-Y!!!!!!!! That was for sure a test of my patience. I thought I was going crazy a couple of times with that one.

OK, so it was a reversal of wires. I spoke with Gene at YnZ and talk to him about the IGN over the right bolt. He said yes, that indicates that is where the #6 wire goes (from the ignition) and the sending unit goes to the other. His instructions did say the reverse, but as he said that was not the first time they were incorrect.

So. 2 things left before she comes off the blocks.

1. Finish up gluing down the weather striping on the convertible top.
2. Front left turn signal needs a new wire, as the original had a cold solder.

Cheers
Ben

Fantastic, way to go Ben, your tenacity really paid off!
Bob J.

Glad to hear that!

Was going through my files and came across this picture from 1979. My grandmother in the driver seat her best friend standing and her friends daughter in the back seat. Blanche kind of looks the same except she has white walls now.