Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Trying to remove my U joint. Bearings do not want to come out even with a hydraulic press. What to do?

I took the 2 clips off already btw.

They can be very difficult!
Since you have tried the hydraulic press I am assuming the shaft is out of the car. You could try heat and then a dunk in a bucket of ice water. This may loosen the corrosive bond. I have found too an air chisel beats a press too, the fast concussive action of the chisel breaks down the bond fast between the bearing cap and sleeve. The air chisel drove out king pin bushing in short order that had me beat in all other methods of removal. Likely work both pinions a bit as trying all one side will not translate the vibratory action through the cross shaft well, whereas working both sides will likely see some results quicker. If you are trying to reuse the Trunnion Bearing, placing a sacrificial socket between the chisel and the cap head will save it from damage. Try and lock the assembly into a stout vice so little effort is lost and directed as much as possible where its needed.
Good luck!
Bob J.

Thanks Bob.

I was able to make excellent progress yesterday:

- I got both the rear brakes done and installed. The E brake is installed and properly adjusted. I followed the steps in the manual to a tee and it gave a very good result. As a side note, when I bought this car, the E-brake was stuck for no apparent reason. In servicing the system I couldn't find why this was, thought I think they were just adjusted completely wrong, though why the rear wheels could still spin I don't know. Note: I'll still need to disconnect the mounting plates when I service the rear axle.

- I removed the driveshaft and re-lubed the ball and trunion joint with wheel bearing grease. I did notice a good amount of pitting, but the mating surfaces on the joint were still good, so I just threw it back together. Could be worse for 93k miles and sitting for 30 years. Is this a sufficient amount of grease to use? Packard warns against over lubricating the joint. I did pack the needle bearings and other parts individually. BTW, I'll probably get some Gummi Pflege to revive the boot a bit. Fortunately it seems in good shape otherwise.

- I checked the #1 main bearing and #3 rod bearing tolerances with Plastigage and they were at 2.2 and 1.7 thou respectively; spec is 0.5 to 2.5. So a bit worn, but good enough to ride with 😎
(Picture shows main bearing)

- Also bought some gas tank vent hose. Having a hard time re-attaching it. Any good way to get it a bit more stretchy and help it on the tank?

Attach file:

---

  20240420_210010.jpg (770.37 KB)


  20240420_210058.jpg (360.19 KB)


  20240420_212046.jpg (422.01 KB)


  20240420_215443.jpg (599.23 KB)

I got the rear U joint disassembled yesterday. I had to use a wrench and hammer combo to bang out one side. Literally took probably 100 hits or more. But then I could just press out the other side. Unfortunately the U joint is a bit messed up as shown in the photo. Not sure if this is from the effort it took to remove it or if it happened on the road 30+ years ago (note the metal shavings that collected in the center, so I am thinking the latter). It still spins over okay so I just repacked it and stuck it back in, but I plan to replace it before too long.

I tested the tolerance on all the main bearings except #5 and they were all 1.9-2.2 thou. I removed all the pistons; the #2 cylinder looks a bit “ruff” so I think I want to hone them and install new rings. In the meantime I can de-gunk the pistons.

Attach file:

---

  DE79BAD8-519A-4785-86A0-27FC7FEE6516.jpeg (405.37 KB)


  5837573F-C72F-4554-AD28-D82A9681E723.jpeg (384.32 KB)


  ED28F154-BC86-487F-B89B-8719CDBF1570.jpeg (670.86 KB)


  F9826AE0-1EFC-41C3-B5B1-CA27DA73399F.jpeg (674.63 KB)

Also, here is how I removed my vibration damper. First, remove the bolt and washer then screw the bolt back in about half way. Get a deep well 1-1/16 socket and, very important, fill it almost all the way up with washers. For me, 3/16 washers happened to have the right OD. Then just press with the C-clamps.

Eventually once it’s mostly out, flip the socket around and loosen the bolt to be only about 1/4 threaded. This will give the reach necessary. Even more than that and you can tap LIGHTLY with a dead blow on alternating sides to bump it out.

Attach file:

---

  CE09505F-BC20-47E8-BD73-DD8CAA8EB785.jpeg (481.51 KB)


  35372281-AACD-402A-B165-671470C067D1.jpeg (462.82 KB)

Spray the inside of the hose with brakleen, it will slide on.

hph

See the 6 part Weber State presentation on universal joints.


bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=weber+state+university+universal+joint+repair&mid=867BFD15D883D1662255867BFD15D883D1662255&FORM=VIRE


Edit: Sorry that link didn't work . . . seems it goes to a Weber Grill site. A search for the text "weber state university universal joint repair" works.

dp

Quote:

Looks like this is it
youtu.be/v0RZVQQVMZs?si=I9EBQDr0yp3G-MkQ

I have 2 radiators but don't know if either are good. I've heard recoring is expensive and I haven't been able to find anyone around here yet that would even do it. So I was looking at this thread suggesting a 70's V8 Ford truck radiator. Has anyone tried it since then? As long as it physically fits, I can drill some new mounting holes or whatever, onto the cradle.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... c_id=18247&order=ASC&status=&mode=0

P.S. Got the dash removed today.
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=28214

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20240526-233541_Chrome.jpg (293.28 KB)

I had my radiator tested and recorded at
Hunzeker Radiator Company
6800 Kelly Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15208
412-661-2266