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I'm a little stumped with my overdrive on my 1949 23rd Series Super Eight. When I let off the gas, regardless of speed, it just freewheels and when I apply throttle it just slips back into normal gear.

I have power at the relay. I can trip the solenoid (where I can hear it click). I have NOT taken the solenoid off to bench test. Should that be my next step...or do you think maybe the governor switch? I was hoping that I could find something simple when I started with my multimeter, but no such luck. There is another post on here with a diagram with superimposed instructions and I have been through those.

If the governor switch is dirty, or the lockout switch, the relay will receive no signal telling the overdrive to operate. You can check the rest of the overdrive by patching a wire onto the relay at the same terminal you used to test it previously. Bring that wire inside the car and go for a drive. When you reach 25 or so ground that wire on some convenient screw or door handle and the car should go into OD when you let off the gas.

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That is good advice...I'll try all of the above. I had been focusing on the relay and solenoid as those seem to be common denominators.

Can I assume the lockout switch is working as if I have the cable engaged it freewheels and if not it drives as if no OD....?

Electrically make sure the lockout switch is working. Remove one of the wires and use an ohmmeter so you can test that when the OD knob is pulled out the switch will be open or have no continuity but when knob is pushed in the switch will close.

The plunger is plastic and in several instances it was found that a notch had worn in the end of the plunger so that the plunger would not travel the entire distance. Issue was the switch either would not close or else vibration would intermittently open and close the switch. The symptom would be the same as if the governor was not working.

Here is the difference between a good and bad switch. If the switch is only slightly worn and the lockwasher is still present you can usually unscrew the switch and remove the lockwasher to get a bit more life out of the switch. Some switches just unscrew but others need to have a bent over tab straightened so the switch can turn and unscfrew.

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  R9 AND R11 good lockout switch.jpg (266.62 KB)


  R9 and R11 worn lockout sw.jpg (52.50 KB)

Thanks Howard.

Where is this switch physically located? I’ve found all the wiring schematics but want to make sure I’m looking at the right thing.

Thanks!!

I believe he's referring to the switch that's on the back of the under-dash handle's housing.

The lockout switch screws into the top rear of the under dash bracket where the OD lockout knob is located. If the switch and bracket are still stock there will be a serrated lockwasher along with a locking type plate affair which consists of a rectangular piece of thin metal with the sides bent up or down to keep the switch from unscrewing.

To remove the switch bend the sides of the plate flat so they are straight out and the switch will unscrew. If the switch has been a problem before it might have the wear issue so it could have been worked on in the past. If that is the case there is a chance the plate or the regular lockwasher or both will be gone. Removing an item was the temporary fix short of replacing the switch because removing the washer or plate allows the switch to sit lower so that the plunger wear is somewhat compensated for.

Found it!! You rock.