Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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I would not if I were you. You will need a battery anyway, may as well get one first thing.

I'd buy a good quality full size 6 volt battery and top quality cables of the correct size. A good conventional motor oil in 10W30 or 10W40 is fine for all but the most extreme conditions. Fresh fuel is a must. There are a number of procedures that are good to follow when starting a car that has not run in a long while. There are several discussions on this forum relating to them. Don't start the car without coolant in the radiator unless you want to burn out the water pump seal. I'd go over the car and oil and grease all the lube points before doing anything else. A good pump oil can is needed. Just about everything on the car that moves will need lubrication of one kind or another. A car in good condition won't start and run correctly with a junk battery, junk cables, dirty ignition points, stale gasoline, etc.

Do you have background information on the car, such as general condition, how long it has been inactive, how it ran when last used?

I suggest turning the engine over two full turns to make sure nothing is stuck. A 1" socket will do the job on the bolt on the front of the crankshaft. That is most easily reached from under the car.

Then don't even put a battery in it for preliminary investigations. Just jump it with good jumper cables from any convenient 12v car or tractor. I wouldn't even turn the key on. Run a hot wire over to the coil--if it doesn't spark as you connect it then either your points are open or are dirty. Use another hot wire to touch the small post on the starter solenoid to make it crank. These cars are not made out of cotton candy. Thus we move the parts cars around all the time. You will do well with an old lawn mower gas tank hanging on the drip rail to feed some fresh gas into the carb. Don't forget to plug the line coming from the fuel pump or you may get an unpleasant surprise if she does fire up.

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That is the crux of it. Depending on whether you ask the previous owner or his uncle whose farm it was parked on since the mid 60s, it was parked because he blew the transmission up OR because it had a serious rod knock.

Around here a cheap grade 6V battery is $300 and a mid grade one is $500.

If it is just the transmission, that is manageable to move forward. If it has a serious rod knock then the engine has to come out. Given the $$$ to deal with that, something 12V would almost certainly go into it, thus wasting the cost of the 6V battery.

I do believe I understand the risk. I will consider my options.

As far a turning the crank, I have resurrected a few old engines before. Pull the plugs, give each cylinder a shot of ATF, let that soak while I pull and clean the carb. Gently rock the crank back and forth by the dampener bolt to break it loose (if it was stuck), fresh oil, gas from a gas can with a 2.5psi electric pump, etc.

It will get the full "wake up" treatment, but it is stored at a buddy's place an hour from civilization so I need to take anything I might need with me.

I am surprised not to see a mirror outside

Since there seems to be a question about the crankshaft/rods, I'd begin by removing the oil pan and inspecting the connecting rods. The oil pan probably needs cleaned out anyway. Another uncle indicated a transmission issue, so removing the transmission pan and taking a look in there would probably be prudent as well. Doing so may reveal indications of failure or abuse. Removing the oil pan will allow settling the rod question and will reveal the general condition of the engine. If the transmission uses a vacuum servo operated modulator valve, a problem with the servo or its plumbing may be the cause of transmission problems that can be fixed without a tear down.

I'd stay away from 12 volts. Properly converting a car to 12 volt negative ground is a headache, and can get expensive. Just dealing with the dash gauges can be a problem. In the past, when batteries had exposed cell connectors, people would put a 6 volt tap on the battery to run 6 V gauges and radios, but that's no longer an option with typical batteries today. Some gauges may be polarity-sensitive, and radios and ignition coils typically are. The most reliable cars I've ever owned have had 6 volt systems.

OK, admittedly, all the pictured examples are from my photo collection of 6 volt starters that were used in 12 volt conversions. The collection continues to grow as I spend more time on Packard forums and groups. Would a couple of shots of 12 volts blow the nose off your starter? Probably not but I wouldn't take a chance on it.

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Do you mean on the picture of my car that I posted? If so, it's because it's so fast I don't need to worry about what's behind me.