Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Sounds like there is some sort of ignition problem. I will be good to get that corrected and see if it possibly fixes your other issue.

How is your distributor shaft? I had to rebuild my distributor because the top bushing was so worn that I could wiggle the shaft back and forth. People forget about the little grease cup on the distributor. (Delco distributors seem to be worse than Autolite.) I'm not sure if this could cause your issue or not.

Quote:

Good to get those points replaced, along with the condenser. Bad condenser may be the reason your points are burnt.

I currently have a Flamethrower on my car (installed this spring), with points, and it's been running well.


For adjusting your throttle linkage you do not need the special tool, you just need the measurement from the top of the head to the center of the hole. On my 53 it's 2 3/4", but I'm not sure what the distance is for your car.


Once you have this set you can check the arm on your transmission's throttle valve to make sure it's in the correct position. My service manual said to adjust it so that a certain size pin (smaller than the actual pin) would just fit in, following a few steps. A hook off my tool board was just the right size for this.

The linkage on my cross-shaft was way too short before I adjusted it to the correct position.

With regards to your low range not working after adjusting it, I wonder if the piston is leaking and that's the reason it's not engaging?? Or maybe the shift linkage is out of adjustment? Hard to imagine that the low range band is burnt up as I don't think it would get that much use. With that in mind maybe there is something else, such as leaky seals inside your transmission, that are causing the issue you originally asked about. Having said that, it doesn't really make sense that leaky seals would cause issues when letting off the gas. Maybe the issue is in your drive line and under load it's okay, but as soon as you let off something moves a bit, like a bad u-joint. Just guessing!!! I'd love to be able to go for a drive with you so could hear and feel what's going on.

Keep us posted!!

Checking in with an update! Alright, so, after completely losing spark there for a bit, back on the road. (The cause there was oil on the ground wire from the distributor to the vacuum advance, guessing I was careless after cleaning/oil the breather cap and it dripped. Only an incidental find, though). I know now that I've got good blue/white spark at the plugs. Also verified my carb adjustments were accurate, and that linkages were in spec. Went out for a drive a tonight, and really, hard to complain. That bucking sensation is still there for sure (only when it gets to operating temp). To me, seems like the direct drive is going in and cutting out, like it can't hold pressure. No bucking sensation when accelerating up hills or anything like that. Just cruise.

I haven't tried new points/condenser. That's next. I'm gonna start studying the service manual and how to do various pressure checks and see if that reveals anything. Thanks, all!

Can almost guarantee you a light bucking at light throttle is a slight lean condition in the carb. There is no way the convertor lockup is shuttling in and out without quite a bit of noticeable drama. You could always put a pressure gage on the direct drive port on the trans to be sure but I would put the chances at near nil.

Our gas today is not the gas of 70 years ago so you might need to adjust the metering rods a little richer.

Easy enough to try that! Correct in assuming the lip on the anti-perc arm needs to be bent upwards a bit?

Winner winner, chicken dinner for Ross and the metering rods. Bent the anti-perc lip up, smoothed right out at cruise. Found my timing a bit late as well, so I bumped that up, and she found a little pep, too. Thank, you all!

Good news!!!👏

Joe I made a significant reduction in similar set of symptoms on my ’48 288 (WDO) by shimming the vacuum piston (aka vacumeter) spring. I left the metering rod adjustment (T109-113) alone and only shimmed the spring with an AN #4 screw flat washer 0.040“ thick, installed in the piston. Somewhere in the mountain of Carter/Packard technical advice I’ve read that spring should be replaced whenever the carb is open for service, however the kits I have bought recently did not include this spring. If that historic advice is well founded perhaps the vacumeter spring takes a set with use, and the mixture will tend to lean with age.
dp

Ugh, hate to bring this back up to the top, but my issue has reared it's head. I ended up both adjusting the metering rods and adding a shim to vacuum piston. Initially, it was phenomenal, average daily driver acceleration and cruise. Was so happy I decided to extend my drive. Well... after about 25 minutes, started bucking slightly, then after a 3 minute stop light, vapor locked. Kicked on my electric pump and it came back around. Still... heat is a problem.

I'm working on potential problem areas for the vapor lock. I have a rubber line that goes right under the radiator to the original brass block on the frame, then to the inlet hose. To me, it looked like the hose might be prone to kinking/collapsing when it warms up, too. I also noticed my inlet hose is a 1/4" ID (shouldn't it be 5/16?")

For the inlet hose, should be at a different angle to help prevent collapse of the hose?

Just to reiterate, heat riser valve functions, and the insulator is in place between the manifold and carburetor. The exhaust is somewhat of a question mark, and I'm not sure there isn't some sort of blockage keeping extra heat at the manifold. Any additional thoughts would be very welcome.

Attach file:

---

  20240816_204216.jpg (2,921.34 KB)


  Screenshot_20240816_220016_Messenger.jpg (639.04 KB)

My opinion.

Is to buy some 5/16 fuel line. And they have it fuel injection.


Buy a 90% fitting and hose clamps. Run straight into fuel pump.

If no problems..

Then you know.

And if you know a place that can make you up fuel line like that.

If you don't want gear clamps.