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Will you provide details on the bulbs you used? I put LEDs in my car and they are brighter, but not like that.

Here are the bulbs I used:

amazon.com/dp/B0794PFBHV

As I mention, the lower speedo socket hole is too shallow for the above to fit, so I used one of these for that location:

amzn.to/3Xa1Q44

Which ever ones you use, you want ones that have LEDs on the sides as it's the light from the sides of the bulbs that illuminate the gauges. LEDs tend to be very directional vs normal incandescent bulbs. LEDs use less power and put out more lumens with less heat than a comparable incandescent bulbs, so get the highest lumen rating you can find that are the same physical size.

One of my trunk rack knobs has very worn threads causes it to loosen up or not fully tighten at all. I previous drilled a hole through the end to prevent the knob from loosening completely and out. But I really wanted to address the core issue.

So I cut the shaft off, and drilled and tapped the knob to accept a new 3/8x24 piece of threaded rod. Which I then locktited in place. Worked perfectly!

Good Afternoon...Nice work...Ernie in Arizona

Rear u-joint was clunking around so thanks to a parts delivery from Flackmaster, I tackled replacing them today.

I did the ones on the 54 so I figured no problem.

Yeah....best laid plans. I wasn't expecting press in end caps on the drive shaft.

Getting them out was a challenge. I figured like most press in type you could push one cap through and push the other cap out. So that meant the entire shaft had to come put of the car to do that.

With the shaft out I discovered that the cross shaft spider hits the side of the casting before it pushes either cap out of the casting.

So after some choice words and some head scratching, I used a flat bit on pneumatic hammer to catch the inner edge of the bearing cap and push it right out in about 3 seconds. Repeat with other side and voila. Done.

Cleaned the old grease these NORS joints were packed with and regreased them with some fresh grease, and then back together with new lock tabs.

Also, I found a zip works great to prevent the end caps from falling off while wrestling back into position under the car.

Did the installers of the Jaguar engine manage to do it so that the driveshaft needed no modifications?

I couldn't tell you that. To me the shifter is slightly more forward than original. Transmission back is all Packard.

The driveshaft has "Original 115c Bluebird" written on it. Bluebird was another 115c that Mark owned in the past.

But I don't see any evidence of the shaft being altered and rewelded in modern times.

Replaced the rear swaybar bushings with new urethane ones and also topped of the rear shocks with oil.

No longer will my wife have a loose rear end!

BTW....my wife doesn't appreciate my humor.





Handling is much firmer now with all the recent changes.

I do need to get back under there, clean the floor pan area above the axle, and paint it.

Also, some leaf spring rebound clips are hanging and rusted through in spots, so replacements are overdue. I am pretty sure they are original.

I'll need to measure the spring width to see if the local Napa carries them.

Can anyone with a 1937 120C or 115C take a gander under their car and let me know what the spring rebound clips look like?

The ones on mine appear to be just basic, thin, folded sheet metal affairs. But I see that the later-style ones have a rubber liner and a bolt.

I would like to know which style is correct.

It the pieces marked 14.103 (which is incorrect as that GRP doesn't exist in the book; it's 14.113):




The 51-54 ones look like this: