Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

For me, anything that's been together for a long time, I always try to wirebrush any exposed threads. It helps obvious clear threads of rust and dirt. But then allows penetrator to wick in deeper and in cases where those threads are then going back through a nut or a threaded surface on when being removed, helps to prevent crap that is wedged threads from damaging the threads in either surface upon removal.

My usually process is a quick shot of brake cleaner to soften/dissolve and grease/dirt. Then wirebrush, followed by penetrator. This really helps the penetrator do it's work.

Wooden wedges for loosening the head can be found at most hardware stores
in a pack. they are used for shimming door frames when they are being installed.
Couple dollars for two dozen or so.

John

Just my view

Getting the head off can be an adventure if it has been on for a while.

Do not go straight to 60 ft/lbs, in my view 50 to 55 to be a little conservative. Go over each stud with a die nut and run a bottom tap through each nut to clean each stud and nut. I use a sealant called Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer on the gasket top and bottom. Get the head checked to make sure it is flat, may need a little shave of a few thou. I also use a rust sealant on the studs. Once the head is on follow the nut pattern, go down to about 40 and leave it, perhaps overnight. Then 5 lbs increments to 50 and run the engine to running temp and leave it cool then come back to see if you need to add a bit. I use a deflective beam torque wrench which I have had calibrated a few of times.