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Hello everyone, first post for me.
Our 1502 will not restart once it gets hot. We are leaning towards an electrical issue but can't nail it down. When hot if you kill it at a stop sign, you're going to be there for an hour waiting for it cool down then it will restart. Fires up fairly easy from cold, but will not restart hot. The timing is on, new points and condenser, valves adjusted, and the battery is good. We have read that, the fuel can empty/boil out of the carb. We can't wrap our heads around it happening, in a matter seconds, from when the car is stopped. Hoping someone here can maybe direct us to something we are missing. Thanks in advance.

That's not too uncommon. If it does it immediately after stopping the engine when hot, then trying to re-start, it may be that the starter is dragging. In such a case, the starter will often sound like the battery needs charging. Another possible cause is carbon deposits in the engine. Driving the car will often reduce them. Timing that is just a little too far advanced can cause hot starting issues, and if the distributor advance mechanism is not working as it should, the timing can be advanced too far even if the initial timing is correct. You might try driving the car to fully warm it up, then set the initial timing about 3 to 4 degrees later than it is, and see if that helps. Try it several times to be sure. Another way to check for advanced timing is to get the engine hot, then crank it with the ignition OFF and see if it cranks faster. You need a full size battery in top condition and the correct cables and connectors in top condition to assure reliable starting under all conditions. ** While it is not uncommon for older cars to flood when stopped in hot weather, it usually takes a few minutes after a hot stop for this to occur, and the same is true for a dry carburetor bowl condition. If the car is hard to start immediately after a hot shutdown, it probably isn't a fuel issue, UNLESS you have a sticking choke or a sticking manifold heat valve.

I just have the 120, but mine has the '53 327 with the 4 BBL Carter Carb. That said, she will not always start hot either, and NEVER after a stall out at a light, turns over but cannot get gas. I suspect a bad accelerator pump acerbated by the modern fast evaporating fuel with ethanol in these parts. I have found a sure work-around for mine. I made a cup holder that is designated for a Gatorade bottle I keep filled when I refill the tank. A short shot right in the carb results in an instant fire-up.
You could test this in the privacy of your garage by taking her out for a run, shutting her down in the garage, then trying to start her. If she doesn't go, try a shot of gas and see if she responds. No harm done as if it doesn't work, simply empty the bottle into the gas tank and go to the next plan.
Bob J.

You probably do have a fuel problem. Might be low float level and/or accelerator pump issue.

I agree, but it does not show up at all during running any other way so I use the bottle.
Here is a shot of the holder, put it on the passenger side so in easy reach to priming the carb.
Bob J.

Attach file:

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  Rumble Seat Cup Holder.JPG (2,589.68 KB)

I'd want to find and correct the cause and dispense with juggling gasoline and the hassle. It's probably not a difficult or expensive fix. The car should not die in traffic. Any time you put gasoline directly into a carburetor, beware of fire. I've seen a bad situation result from it. Your carburetor should squirt a visible stream gasoline into the carburetor throat if the accelerator pump is working as it should. If it doesn't, that may be the cause of your restart problem, and a weak or inoperative accelerator pump would be a likely cause of the engine dying just as you take off from a stop. If your automatic choke is working, that will usually get you started when the engine is cold, but it's no help at all once the engine warms up. An engine with a weak or inoperative accelerator pump will usually be "cold natured" and be balky until the engine fully warms up, besides driveability issues, such as hesitation and engine quitting on takeoff from a stop.

My 39 Six had the original Chandler Groves carburetor that eventually was given up on from everything I have read or been told. I had learned to use the juice it method to help with faster starting and somewhat got in a habit of doing that half the time when I might drive to the store and stop. A few times I ran into the hot day sputter and die and someone shared the rock the car method which I guess either works or gives the false fix for restarts (vapor lock?).

Recently, after struggling to find rebuild for my CG, I decided to try my NOS Stromberg BXOV-25 carburetor. Technically, I needed the -26 for the actual thermostatic choke which I found and installed to change from the automatic. While I can't speak to overall improvements with just a few drives so far, I have noticed night and day difference on quick starting with no juicing. Time will tell how well that swap works though so far I am pleased.

Thanks for all the replies!
I'll check the timing, but it should be set 7 btdc. As per the manual. The carb is freshly rebuilt and I can confirm the accelerator pump is working. You can see the gas stream into the throttle body. The manifold heat valve is frozen open so we took a piece of thin sheet metal and blocked it off between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Thinking it will keep the heat away from the carb. We also tried pouring gas down the carb, that didn't work either. The starter sounds fine, and we have 2/0 awg cables connecting the battery. The engine dieing at stops is driver error, not the the car. Oh and I'll check the float level as well but that was set when the carb was rebuilt.
Can the ign coil get weak if it gets hot?

The coil can definitely fail when hot, I had that problem on my dad's 1938 Super 8. But it wasn't dying at a stop. It would die completely when driving and accelerating...it felt exactly like it was starved for fuel. After a couple of minutes of waiting it would start right up and go again. It could idle all day but as soon as I started to get the car moving into 2nd and 3rd gear it would die every time. A new coil solved that problem.

The '38 occasionally dies when coming to a stop. When I pop it out of gear right before the stop it will sometimes fall flat on it's face and die. It's hard to tell because there's no tachometer and the engine is hard to hear when idling. It starts back up but takes more cranks than normal. I'm assuming it's a carb problem, even though I rebuilt it. Fuel system is all good, timing should be on, and ignition is all new. Can't think of what else it would be.

Sounds like a similar problem to yours, minus the restarting problem.

-Kevin

Definitely check the float level. A carb rebuilder with one of the best reputations in the country set my float incorrectly. Because of our confidence in them, we checked everything else, fuel system and electrical system, before checking carb float. We in fact sent it back under warranty and they found their error.
Also I think the coil can act up when hot. A friend swears by new epoxy filled coils, if the float is set correctly and you need a new one.