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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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So I have been making trips back home here and there and was back there this weekend and got this out when it was high humidity and about 90 degrees out. I figured I should give the A/c a try. Was able to record 58 degrees coming out of the outlets! pretty damn happy about that!! With only me in the car it kept it manageable, but I dont know if I would be comfortable with another person in there with me in a suit for a wedding, but I will take it!

I think over the winter I am going to get the drive shaft looked at. I didnt like how the U joints felt once I installed them so I am going to make sure it isnt bent because that car is not as smooth when compared to the Caribbean is at certain speeds.

Posted on: 7/17 14:29
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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HH56
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On the driveshaft and smoothness you might also see if anything in bulletin 56T-10 and the corrected version -10C applies to your Patrician.

Posted on: 7/17 16:48
Howard
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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humanpotatohybrid
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Per the manual, ideally the temperature at the outlets should be high 30's steady state after a bit of driving. The service manual gives instructions for adjusting this on page 5.

Or do you have aftermarket A/C? I forget.

Posted on: 7/17 18:01
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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Packard Don
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Does it by chance have R-134a refrigerant? If so, it's known to be much warmer when used in an old system not designed for it. That said, Classic Auto Air can apparently rebuild the components with R-134a in mind.

Posted on: 7/17 21:33
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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The system is a modified version of the Packard system. I am running newer valves, parallel flow condenser, and a Sanden compressor. Running the original Evaporator and box. I am running R134a

and howard, Ill give that bulletin a look see

Posted on: 7/18 8:57
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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Packard Don
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In that case, I would say that your expansion valve and other components need to be modified for it too but warmer (or rather, not so cold) air is to be expected with that setup. Also, with an unmodified system, you shouldn’t fill it with the refrigerant. I don’t recall the details but I understand that you need to use a little less.

Posted on: 7/18 11:42
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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humanpotatohybrid
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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Quote:

CarFreak wrote:
Well I drove it the following day and as I was pulling out of a parking lot I lose power, the radio cuts and it feels like its coasting. Then the radio come backs on and power is back and I continue driving. While this was happening I was hearing some type of electrical noise in the steering column and it started to smoke. It stopped a couple seconds later and everything was fine but the horn didnt work... I figured something shorted or somehow that wire got power to it (it is a ground wire up through the column). Need to look into that. I dont know if this is connected but I also found out my power windows, seat and locks no longer work (need to check the circuit breaker and wires).

I was working on the a/c system and I may have leaned on the connections on the horn relay that allowed contact between the horn relay feed and the horn signal wire? again need to look into that.


Yes, I believe what must have happened your horn relay Bat and Switch terminals were shorted. Then either the horn was pressed accidentally, or there was some other short in the horn switch area, which would cause a direct short to ground. Normally a short to ground at the horn switch would just cause the horn to sound (much to the annoyance of classic car owners whom this happens to accidentally); the wire in the column provides power and it is grounded by the switch during normal operation. This by itself would never cause an overcurrent condition as the current is limited by the impedance of the horn relay coil.

Probably horn wire is toast and the contacts need inspected/cleaned. I know a guy with a whole steering column for sale for like 20 bucks up by Mifflinburg. Unfortunately it's still attached to the car.

If you inspect the wiring harness by the starter probably you will find that the battery wire or connections to the horn relay are also shot. Either the PS, PW CB was spliced into the same horn wire, or it is connected close enough to be likewise damaged by the heat from the shorting horn wire.

Also regarding the original horn problem: see here for the repair to this, page 4. I'm not sure the spacer dimensions but it shouldn't be difficult to figure out proportionally if you can measure the width or depth of the original hardware.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO8.pdf

P.S. On the fuel issue, there is also a screen in the fuel pump. If you have the original pump and not cleaned out the tank (I don't remember if you did), the screen would be worth checking sometime preventatively I think.


I removed the horn ring from my parts car to swap for my cracked one and would you look at that. Someone added lock washers to the posts to give the horn ring a bit more travel.

Using comparative methods, the spacers in that STB are 0.075 thick (the contact ring is 3.45 dia.). The lock washers used are 0.045 thick. I must say that the additional travel has a good feel to it.

P.S. The contact ring is 4.1029 in the book.

Edit: well maybe I am imagining things since this same modification was done on my project car too, turns out. 🤔

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Posted on: Today 12:31
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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HH56
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Wonder if that was a 55 wheel or if the 55 fix wasn't quite enough or if the washers were added for another reason. Spacers in Packard's language might have been washers

Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: Today 12:45
Howard
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