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Have you ever used any kind sealant on the inside of the hose or where it connects to make a better seal?

I'm just trying to figure out why the heck I am having so many issues trying to get those spring clamps to seal correctly. All the other style clamps seam to seal just fine. It's almost like the there is not enough overlap when the two sides of the spring clamp slide past one another, and it leaks there. I'm tempted to just put the aviation style ones on, but I really want the spring ones to work. I can imagine then really leaking when the system is hot and pressurized. Well hopefully I wont come home from Atlanta with a huge puddle of coolant under the car.

I noticed you have band clamps on that hose. Were the spring style ones leaking?

I never use a sealant but I always make sure the clamp is past the flange that is built into every metal pipe/tube that requires one of those clips including tranny cooler, radiator, heater feed, ranco valve, heater core, etc. The short piece of hose that goes from the water pump to the tranny cooler does not use a Corbin clamp on the pump end, but it is a special kind of screw clamp.

BigKev,

What Randy said before, with some more ideas...

Those spring hose clamp are used mostly to speed production IMO. (No screws to mess with as it goes down the line). With the right tool, they go on easily, but there's no way to tighten them beyond their own spring tension, which doubtless varies from one to another. You have to pull the hose to put on a new one, too.

I'm sure they're "correct" on almost any from-the-factory water hose set-up, but what a PITA.

Regarding sealant in hose connections, it's sometimes not considered kosher, but Permatex #2 often seals small leaks due to irregularities in the ID surface of hose or OD of nipple/pipe.

Take these steps:

Clean the pipe nipple and flange thoroughly (old crud on it may be source of leak in first place).

Spread an even, thin coat of Permatext #2 on the OD of the pipe and flange, NOT the ID of the hose, which results in the pipe squeezing a bead of Permatex into the hose that will loosen up and float around in the cooling system.

Allow a couple of minutes for the Permatex to set up.

Push the hose and clamp on. As Randy notes, always make sure the leading edge of the clamp is behind the flange, with no overlap.

Tighten the clamp with a screwdriver or small socket.

Run and check for leaks. Here's the beauty part: if it leaks, you have the option to just tighten the clamp instead of starting all over.

Also, the Permatex #2 (NEVER use #1) will stay flexible and allow easier removal of the hose. (After removal, the excess sealant will need to be cleaned off the pipe nipple. Alcohol works well.) Cheers!

NOTE:
In very high pressure applications, Permatex is not a good idea. Look at most hydraulic lines--you'll see "aircraft" hoseclamps tightened to the max, usually with a wrench rather than a screwdriver.

Thanks for the tips Guy. I dont have any issues the clamps that screw tighten. Just the spring style ones. Also I do have all the clamps on the inboard side of the flange. So I know thats not the issue.

I will try to #2 permatex and see if that helps.

If u really have to use the spring type clamps try squeezing it tighter with a pair of channel lockes or in a vice BEFORE installing. The best thing to do is to use screw type clamps unless u need to win a dash plaque..

One possibility on the spring clamps being tight is I'd bet the hose is a mite thinner today than it was yesterday--and there also seems to be a variation between store brands as well. Just like lumber--3/4 plywood is actually 1 or 2 64ths less..

The single-wire spring clamps are properly called "Corbin" clamps, are they not? While I've never had a problem with one not securing the hose, I likewise detest them, they look insecure and say "cheap". But there are alternative "of the era" clamps that look more secure, yet don't have that modern look, for example the Sherman-type, or steel double-wire type, even the Wittek type. It's pretty rare that I have one of my cars judged, I'm really not into that, but I've noted some judging venues seem to overlook these alternative clamps, even though they are not OEM.

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Very good point, and you're probably right. Hadn't thought of the hose OD factor. Another argument against those one-piece springs.

Owen,

Do you happen to have pics of Sherman-type and Wittek type clamps? The names are not familiar to me. Also, some might not be familiar with the "double-wire" type, (which might have a clever name, too).

Don't mean to make work for you, but thought it might be a nice addition to the thread, as long as we're at it.

BigKev,

Please let us know if the Permatex #2 works for you. It's basically like putting "stop-leak" where it does the most good.

As far as judging goes, I would imagine that a puddle of antifreeze under the vehicle counts more points off than a "non-period-correct" hose clamp. Like there's such a thing as a bona-fide OEM hose clamp!

Owen, Do you happen to have pics of Sherman-type and Wittek type clamps? The names are not familiar to me. Also, some might not be familiar with the "double-wire" type, (which might have a clever name, too).

Sherman-type (a very common type, usually in galvanized steel or brass) and others are pictured in the Restoration Supply Co. catalog; pg 20 for my copy. Try <www.restorationstuff.com> and download catalog. Take time to browse the rest of the catalog, it's a good source for many items.

EDIT- enclosed pix from Restoration Specialties catalog (not to be confused with Restoration Supply), lower right is Wittek tower, other OEM types also pictured.

Adding parts of 2 pages from Restoration Supply, upper right is "double wire" type, two adjacent to the left are Sherman type. Others also pictured.

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