Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

For me, anything that's been together for a long time, I always try to wirebrush any exposed threads. It helps obvious clear threads of rust and dirt. But then allows penetrator to wick in deeper and in cases where those threads are then going back through a nut or a threaded surface on when being removed, helps to prevent crap that is wedged threads from damaging the threads in either surface upon removal.

My usually process is a quick shot of brake cleaner to soften/dissolve and grease/dirt. Then wirebrush, followed by penetrator. This really helps the penetrator do it's work.

Wooden wedges for loosening the head can be found at most hardware stores
in a pack. they are used for shimming door frames when they are being installed.
Couple dollars for two dozen or so.

John

Just my view

Getting the head off can be an adventure if it has been on for a while. I have been through this a couple of times. The head is stuck on the studs, rusted on and you will need to use a rust freeing material, usually a good penetrating oil, better that WD40, there is a product called Yield Penetrate Release Agent made by NCH Chemicals it is in a spray can you can squirt it down the studs to release some of the rust keep squirting it in for a couple of days so it soaks into the rust. I have two tools made from 18mm spark plugs, I put one in number and two in number 7 plug holes and a heavy bar between them, pulled the hood off and used a block and tackle to lift the head as I hammered away at the wooden wedges as it lifted I added one more click on the block and tackle effectively hitting the head onto the tension of the block and tackle. Five hours later the head was off and you will be surprised at the amount of crap left behind, you will wonder how the car went at all has been my experience. The gasket will be stuffed and better cut off with snips. I then reamed the stud holes, brushed the studs and painted a epoxy rust inhibitor paint after I ran a die nut over the studs. I had the head cleaned and shaved, (the head may have a little warp if the car overheated at some time in its life), and put the head back on. Get a straight edge to make sure the block is flat. Use a feeler gauge if you see any light under the straight edge on any space over a couple of thou get the block checked out.

Do not go straight to 60 ft/lbs, in my view 50 to 55 to be a little conservative. Go over each nut with a bottom tap to clean each nut. I use a sealant called Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer on the gasket top and bottom. Once the head is on follow the nut pattern, go down to about 40 and leave it, perhaps overnight. Then 5 lbs increments to 50 and run the engine to running temp and leave it cool then come back to see if you need to add a bit. I use a deflective beam torque wrench which I have had calibrated a few of times.

Thanks for the tips.

I am still trying to remove the head/gasket. I just picked up another can of brake cleaner and rust buster to work the studs. I do recall one of the studs had some coolant leaking out of the stud when I removed the nuts.

I will keep working it as I need to get the motor back together before it gets cold and winter sets in...

Gar

After 28 hours of effort, I finally was able to get the head off of my 28 6 cyl.

Since the valves were carbonized and dirty from 90+ years of use, I decided to clean the manifold and valves. How do I take the valve cover off of the car? I have taken the nuts off, but I do not see any way to get the cover off. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Gar

Dumb question... are you sure it's not just stuck too?

I heated it up around the gasket and final got it to a point where I could get a putty knife in it. Once I was able to break the seal all around the cover is came free. A fair amount of sludge around the valve arms/springs. Any issue using brake cleaner to remove the gunk?