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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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It is a good project to learn on though. The pistons are likely scrap anyway, so you do not have that to worry about them. Beating them out with the aide of a hard wood block is kind of therapeutic too! Done many an old Ford flat head V8 with my Father-in-law in my youth, drop the crank and have at'er!
Good challenge between me and him to see how few belts with the hammer to remove each piston. He always won of course, but still made for some good fun! Complete disassembly will also result in building a stock of used parts, items such as connecting rods, valve springs, even some valves may all serve as useful parts on another engine, not to mention lots of unique fasteners. Bag and tag for the future. Bob J.
Posted on: Yesterday 15:11
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Start soaking all of your studs, fasteners, etc now! Don't worry about the mess. Hot tanking during the rebuild will clean everything up.
I also recommend getting a stud remover, if you don't have one. Greatly reduces the risk of breaking. Amazon - stud removal tool
Posted on: Yesterday 15:22
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Quote:
Here's my personal experience. One time I stored an engine (the 352 in my project) with a missing spark plug over the winter. It was in the car and under a tarp, but the engine was still stuck come spring. But since I knew the problem cylinder, I just took the head(s) off, PB Blaster'd around all the cylinders, and started beating on the problem one with a board and hammer. Engine broke loose in no time. But unless you have a situation like that, there's not much point to it. I also don't like to assume everything is junk just because the engine is stuck. For all you know, that engine may only need the valves redone, honed cylinders, and new rings. Sucks if you were to tear it up and realize stuff was in spec before it was beaten or scored to s***.
Posted on: Yesterday 15:37
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry |
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Bob - Bagging and tagging is already underway. I like to be organized and know what goes where. Lots of pictures as well. I had a friend of mine borrow my lift to drop an engine and trans on his commuter car. He went to town tearing everything down, no bagging parts, no pictures, no labels. When he got done putting everything back together he ended up with 3-4 large bolts with no idea where they were supposed to go. Woops.
Ken - thanks for the recommendation on the stud remover. That's another thing I've never done. HPH - I'm definitely not assuming the engine is trashed unless a major problem (cracked block) gets revealed during the teardown. I'm proceeding as if I will have a beautiful, functioning engine at the end of all this. What I'm hoping for is what you said: overall condition acceptable, new rings, valve job, hone cylinders. If there's more that's fine, but that would be the ideal scenario. Now I need to get an engine stand. I need to measure the big 4 leg HF one to see if I can spin the engine on it if mounted sideways. Didn't get a chance to check it earlier this week. -Kevin
Posted on: Yesterday 17:10
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Many modern engine stands are not well adapted for straight 8s due to the engines length and weight. An engine stand that supported both ends of the engine would be best, or that attached to substantial points on the side of the engine.
A straight 8 could overload many engine stands and cause balance issues.
Posted on: Yesterday 20:02
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Quote:
This is the stand I'm looking at. Out of the ones I've seen it has the widest footprint. I would be mounting the engine sideways (using two of the engine mount holes, and two other holes next to the dipstick), so the center of gravity should be well within the footprint of the stand. The big question is the stand tall enough to allow me to rotate the engine without hitting the legs. Not sure that it is.
Posted on: Yesterday 20:12
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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I have disassembled many Packard engines that were far more stuck than this but it does require pulling the engine as a total disassembly is in order. As suggested and once removed, turn it upside down and remove the crank, then clean each cylinder is best as possible with it upside down in order to minimize the debris from scratching the cylinder walls and carefully tap out the pistons from the back side using a light mallet and a piece of wood inside the piston. Once they have all been removed, then measurements can be taken of the cylinders and if lucky they can be honed without needing to be bored. I would also remove all the valves, lifters and cam before any of the above, making sure to keep all the bits marked so it can be reassembled in the same order.
Posted on: Yesterday 20:33
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Quote:
This is the stand I'm looking at. Out of the ones I've seen it has the widest footprint. I would be mounting the engine sideways (using two of the engine mount holes, and two other holes next to the dipstick), so the center of gravity should be well within the footprint of the stand. The big question is the stand tall enough to allow me to rotate the engine without hitting the legs. Not sure that it is. Although I didn't confirm the stand's dimensions, by looking at it it should have plenty of room to flip the engine if attached at the side, especially as the stand angles upward slightly. The bare engine block is 36" without the bell housing but even with the one for the Ultramatic, that adds only 4" and a manual bell housing adds 7-1/4". Keep in mind that the side engine mount is slightly forward of center so for balance, you might need to fabricate an off-center plate. From the rear of the block to the center line of the motor mount bolt holes is 23" so you'll need an offset of about 6-1/2" if my brain is working correctly (36-23)/2. I have other dimensions too for both 6 and 8 cylinder engines which I made a while back when planning my own stand.
Posted on: Yesterday 20:45
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Don - I'm going to grab the engine stand this weekend, so we should know shortly how well it works. My hope is to pull the engine sometime next week.
Spent a bit of time messing with the engine tonight. Some light tapping on the pistons didn't do anything, and I'm unwilling to spend weeks at it if it won't make a difference. But I'll continue tapping the pistons daily until I pull the engine in case it helps to free them. I removed the head gasket tonight, and started spraying all the studs and fasteners I could reach. I'm going to be blowing through the Freeze Off the next few weeks. Also noted that half the pistons allowed the Marvel past them. 
Posted on: Today 0:00
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