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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Over the years, I have succeeded in freeing a number of old, stuck engines that had sat for many years. A couple of them turned out to be pretty good engines without any disassembly or money spent. Others, of course were well-worn or had valve issues that required attention.
Posted on: 11/15 14:01
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Quote:
I'm trying to learn as much as possible on this car/engine, so I'll be pulling it for sure. But in the future on a different car I'm all for trying to get it running with the engine still in the car.
Posted on: 11/15 15:46
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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With any luck, you can get a good engine out of this one with rings, bearings, and seals. Does it have hydraulic lifters?
Posted on: 11/15 17:03
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Quote:
Try that with an engine where the cylinders are not filled with rust. 😉
Posted on: 11/15 17:06
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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No idea yet. I haven't bothered to pull the valve covers off to check. But I'll be doing that shortly. I'm secretly hoping for solid lifters.
Posted on: 11/15 18:02
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Picked up the HF engine stand I linked to before. Assembly went fine, seems decently built except for the keeper pin. It's a little small for the hole so there is some slop . I might need to address that.
 There is about 25" to the center of the pivot point, plus there are no legs in the exact center so the engine can hang even lower. I should be okay to flip the engine over on this stand.  I've never pulled an engine before so I will need guidance. I plan on pulling the engine and transmission out together. I may remove the entire front clip as one unit just to see how difficult it is. To do that I will need to replace a lot of missing nuts and bolts....the front was completely taken off sometime in the past and everything is held together loosely with some random bolts. My main questions at this point: 1.) Where do I attach the load leveler? Do I need to put the head back on? How do I keep from bending head studs? 2) How heavy is the transmission and what is the best way to remove it from the engine once out? 3.) I'm assuming I will need to drill through the mounting plate on my stand. What size bolts do I need to attach to the side of the block? Hoping to do this sometime this week if I'm lucky. I have a ton of other stuff going on so we'll see. -Kevin
Posted on: 11/18 11:48
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Kevin - on question 1, you don't have to, but I would. If I was pulling that engine, I would set the head back on, then bolt your load leveler to two head studs. I would hold your leveler up over the engine, and pick two likely studs that line up with your chains. If you have the head on, and tighten the nuts down on the studs you use, nothing should bend. If you don't want to swing the heavy head back on, I would think you'd need some sort of spacer to ensure your leveler doesn't scratch the head seating surface, and to take the side load from the studs. As far as were to position it, I would strive for the center of the leveler to be between cylinders 5 and 6, so that you have plenty of adjustment even with the transmission attached. If you find the balance is wrong, you could always re-adjust the leveler before you full remove the engine. For your second question, I would set the transmission on a pallet, engine on some blocks, unbolt the transmission, then re-host the engine with your cherry picker. I'm sure there are other ways, but that's how I would do it. Have fun!
Posted on: 11/18 12:49
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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Nice. Same stand I have.
The instructions are in the Engine service manual. If it's your first time doing it, I would suggest taking off the fenders for better accessibility. You can also remove all the fender-to-cowl bolts, fender-to-frame bolts, a few other bolts, and the front bumper, then remove the pair of fenders and grille and radiator assembly all in one go with the help of about 2 other people. For the transmission: Unbolt the several transmission-to-engine bolts and pull it off. Warning, it's about 200#. Then you need to remove the flywheel cover 5.0604 and then unscrew the torque converter nuts to remove the torque converter. You won't be able to do the TC unless either the engine is unstuck or you remove its crankshaft.
Posted on: 11/18 12:58
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
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Re: Rusty McRustface - Misadventures with a 1953 Clipper Deluxe
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I once pulled the engine from my 1952 Henney-Packard after removing only the grille and radiator frame, leaving the hood in place, but much better to remove the clip as an assembly. Whether or not you remove the hood is your option and not necessary if you keep your chains relatively short.
As for attachment, I've always used whatever bolts are handy as my lift chain has steel tabs with a hole for the purpose. I have a lift plate that I bought decades ago but it does not fit any of my engines and works better on a V8 anyway. Usually I use a couple of the head bolts but I've also used manifold studs if the manifolds are still attached (better to remove them) or whatever is there and available. You may have to relocate the attachment points as needed for balance but with the transmission, the center point will be toward the rear of the engine about a quarter to a third of the block's length forward. All that said and depending on your lift and stand, you may have difficulty getting the engine to the stand due to their various legs getting in each other's way. Do a trial run first without the engine to be sure it will all work.
Posted on: 11/18 16:14
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