Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

Ok so the valve is the one pointed out in red arrows correct? Also that only shows the assembly for the windshield washer system nothing about the brake vacuum system nor how it all hooks to the carb but I could be mistaken I'm not good about reading lay out plans, but I do appreciate how the whole windshield washer system works cause I know I need to hook that up at some point lol

See the fitting and hose. That's on back of carburetor.

Follow that hose. It will have a tee

It will continue over to fender vacuum tank

And other will go down to power brake

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But if you read the full post, I do show that. It is in the image and I explain each line. 🙂

Yes, as noted in that post, the red arrows point to the check valves. Just remove it with a wrench and test it.

Well I went out and looked at it and the hose is actually hooked to the intake on the block. Though the connection for the hose on the back of the carb is present but just not hooked up to it, I'm guessing I should switch it over when I'm able too.

Where the hose is connected to is marked in red

Where the connection is on the back of the carb is in blue

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What da heck...

First of all, I have no clue what that is on the carb but it's not a Packard check valve. And if it was, you would have a massive vacuum leak at all times.

There is no port in the intake there from the factory. I would plug it.

What carb do you have? Some previous owner was really messing around...

Remember the OP said this

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Could that have some bearing on the problem?























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Well then I'm not sure like said the motor thats currently in the car in not the original packard motor. The motor that car has currently is a chevy 350 motor from the 80s, it has a Holly intake manifold and an edelbrock carb on it. Why the vacuum hose is attached to the manifold im not sure nor do i know how that would fully work with is being attached there. Now I do have the original packard 352 v8 stored in the barn nearby cause it came with the car when I bought it, I don't know if I can just switch the carb over from the parkard engine and put it on the chevy engine and fix the issue or not im just not sure but I'm going to assume they don't fit one another but like I said I just don't know.

Here is a picture of the chevy 350 engine that's in the car currently it's the only picture I have on hand right now. (you'll have to click on the image for better image quality)

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Ok, I would ask on the AACA forums or something of how to add a check valve to an Edelbrock on a Chevy 350. I would just be guessing if I were to suggest how to do it.

Would be nice to put the original engine back in sometime, it's easy to get 352 parts, but for now it would be better to patch the random things and enjoy the car.

Next time I stop into O'Reillys I'll see and ask about putting a check valve of the carb. But for now ya I'm just gonna get the car running nicely and looking and preforming good for now.

And I'll definitely be rebuilding the original 352 engine as soon as I'm able to cause it would be nice to get the original engine back in the car it came from and make the car whole again but I of course need a decent amount before doing so like a engine lift and stand so I can at least start taking it apart.

But for now I'll check back about putting a check valve of the edelbrock carb, till then if anyone has any other suggestions on what could be wrong let me know

In theory the brakes should be getting sufficient vacuum right now, at least when the engine is at idle.

You may want to review this document as well as the power brake section of the service manual.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/archi ... ntent.php?op=&catID=8&ContentID=404

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/archi ... tent.php?op=&catID=10&ContentID=119

There are a couple of check valves in the unit. I suspect that something in the vacuum system is not working properly. By the way, be sure to change the brake fluid. Crystallization of old fluid will eventually cause brake failure without warning. If the old fluid looks suspicious, consider removing the unit from the car and rebuilding the master cylinder side.