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Yes, new 6V battery. It would struggle but like you said it would take a few times to crank over but then it would run. Already replaced the fuel tank and sending unit. Once I get it running it will stay running, then I turn it off and will start right up obviously it’s warm so it doesn’t struggle.
It struggled in the morning but little starter fluid and it would turn over, I just been struggling now to get it to crank over. I was thinking a fuel injection carb might work but you are right could be something else

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Do you mean get it to fire off? Or is it literally not spinning as fast as before?

If it struggles to fire even when pumping the gas then it's probably an accelerator pump. You will also probably see the engine stumble if you drive at low speed and punch the gas.

If it struggles to spin then your battery cables are probably undersized. Or, less likely, your starter is worn somehow. Could also be a loose or corroded connection.

Yes, fire off. I may look at the accelerator pump and see if that may fix the issue. You bring up a good point as it has stumbled at low speeds. Will look at the cables as well might have a loose connection but most of parts I have replaced and ordered from Kanter since I try to stick with there recommendation. Back to the drawing board today. Thank you again for the suggestion

Probably just an accelerator pump issue. Not sure on a straight 8 but my V8 never liked to start on starting fluid, so if the accelerator pump wasn't working, then you'd have a heck of a time.

Here's your kit:chicagocarburetor.com/carburetor-kit-sea ... -number=dp1203&searchtype=kitnumber

Chicago Carb DP1203

Also, O'Reilly's has just your accelerator pump.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/walker-products ... products-accelerator-pump/wlk0/6493 Nevermind, that might be 4 barrel only.

Yeah definitely having a hard time starting. Been reading the sheets on how to replace or tweek the accelerator pump in the carburetor. I am up for a challenge but obviously don’t have the tools they recommend. I will be heading to my local Oreilys and pick it up. I seriously appreciate it and will see how it goes

I did see it was for a 4bbl lol no worries I can always order the other one or I can see if they can find one

Even for a full rebuild the only special thing you specifically need are wire gauges. The rest you can do with a metal rule, feeler gauges, and/or a caliper.

Wire gauges are on Amazon:amazon.com/HHIP-4200-0241-Piece-Thread-Measuring/dp/B01BHHX6C8

Note that you need to use blue Loctite on the throttle and choke plate screws. The manual recommends staking them but it's hard to do especially on used hardware.

So I did some research and it looks like it’s compatible to the 4bbl. Just wanted to make sure you see the same thing

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Also, check your carb float level to ensure it's where it needs to be. Also, if one of the valves in the mechanical fuel pump is not sealing perfectly, fuel can drain back into the tank when the car is off.

There is no real point in switching to 4-barrel as you won’t gain anything other than possibly more fuel consumption. It certainly won’t solve the current problem but also it means replacing the intake manifold, throttle linkages and having the manifolds machined as a pair for flatness where they mate with the block. A better solution is to diagnose and solve the problem rather than throwing unneeded parts at it.