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Ok sounds good. I may take it apart and do a complete overhaul on it. Sounds like I should start with the carburetor and get it dialed in.

My suggestion is to solve the slow cranking first by starting with the battery cables and starter, then get back to the carburetor. Be sure you have at least 0 AWG cables but 00 AWG is better and neither of these are sold through auto parts stores although maybe a marine shop might might have them. Check the starter's bearings, commutator and brushes and it it needs brushes, many auto parts stores carry them, especially the larger chains like Napa. According to my notes, the negative cable to the starter from the battery should be 40" long and be sure of the post size on your starter relay for the proper loop on that end. Packards had two different types and as a Clipper, yours would be smaller than that on my 1954 Patrician.

Napa is my chain store of choice and often surprises me at what they have for Packards even if they don't actually know it. Many times it means bringing in an old part for them to match. In rural Central Oregon where my shop is, there is also a small local chain called Baxter's that is a bit closer than Napa which also has or can get many things and you may have similar ones in your area. Personally I will not go to OReilly's if it were the last store in the world but that's just me after a bad experience with them when they cancelled an order due to refusing to ship to my shop because I didn't live there.

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Hopefully you mean just the carb and not the whole engine, at this time...

Shouldn't hurt to rebuild the carb. Lot of small parts but not too crazy and there are lots of videos showing the basic way along with the service manual and the kit instruction sheet to guide you. (And us....)

If you buy it from Carb Shop, Eldon MO you can call the guy for advice. But the kit is like twice the money.

I agree with Don and PGH. Your starting problem will not be solved by a 4 barrel carb. The problem is probably several different things combining to create a hard starting situation. As Don said, make sure the electrical path to the starter is good. 6 volt cars start just fine and run great, but the electrical path must be solid. 00 wire to the starter as Don said. Battery Cables USA makes great cables at a good price. Make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Replacing the cable to my battery with well-made 00 wire made a huge difference.

Carb is not hard to rebuild. Lots of parts, but just take lots of pictures as you disassemble and it won't be hard to get back together. Common places to get rebuild kits: Kanter, Max Merritt, Then and Now Auto, Daytona Carbs, Mike's Carburetor.

Do the above things, double check your ignition (points gap, timing, etc) and your car will start and run reliably.

Thanks for the guidance. I did some of my electrical and of course I feel like I should have soldered but I crimped and shrinked wraped it. I read on here that someone did the same and went back as the connection wasn’t the greatest. Something to consider. I keep reading the references on how to do the rebuild but just lacking the confidence. I am ordering parts and kit and before I tackle it I will make sure I have everything and pictures it is or more like videos as I need to tell myself what I am doing 😂

Oh may as well just try it. I agree it is intimidating at first, especially if you see an exploded parts list. But the carb is made of several subsystems that each have only a few parts that are difficult to assembly wrong. In addition to my previous advice, make a note of which is the primary and secondary jets (I forget if a 2bbl even has two sets of jets).

The other thing is that the accelerator pump check valve, on some carbs, is held in by this sort of crimped piece that can't conceivably be removed. Anything that doesn't just unscrew or slide out, you may want to ask us about for advice before tearing it up.

Ok will do. Would I need to purchase a different tool as when I was reading it, it was referencing different tools but not sure if I would need it or not. What is your experience with it

My thoughts...packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5154/FuelExhaust_XII.pdf

- ignore the 2 steps on p. 4 and the follow-up step on p. 6.
- the adjustments can be made with typical tools. For example, instead of the 13/64 (.203) gauge, just wipe off a feeler gauge set and stack the 8 thru 21 thou thick ones next to each other, confirm the stack is .203 with a mic, and use that. The accelerator setting requires a caliper or ruler; the throttle plate requires a 0.023 wire gauge as shown.
- the bending tools are pointless; just use needle nose pliers... nothing special about it.

Your local auto parts store may be able to lend you a wire gauge set.