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Of recent, I notice a light, metallic click - click - click in the drive line that speeds and slows in frequency with speed of car. Really only noticable at low speed, like when parking or pulling in and out of the garage. My first thought was u-joints, but upon inspection, they seem OK, which is to say no freeplay in the joint itself. They are the one wing, one round cap type. Am I missing something? Any thoughts?

light, metallic click - click - click in the drive line that speeds and slows in frequency with speed of car.

Wheel bearing?

Are you sure it's driveline-- another possibility is a hubcap or wheel.

The noise probably is a u-joint. If it rings a little and sounds like hitting the drive shaft with a small hammer it's the u-joint. What happens is a u-joint can go dry in one axis and freeze up. When the drive shaft turns it forces the frozen axis to move. When it does it builds up pressure and snaps when it moves. The drive shaft amplifies the sound.

You will not find anything by looking for freeplay in the joints. The problem is that it's frozen. You have to remove the drive shaft and check for a stuck axis.


Probably would be a good idea to rull out all the other suggestions ( lug nuts in the hubcaps and all )befor removing the drive shaft.

Thanks for the input guys. I think what I might do later when I get home is to block up the back of the car, have a volunteer turn the rear wheels slowly, and see if I can crawl around and isolate this sound. Or at least try to before I start disassembly of anything.

I remember doing u-joints on a Buick Electra I had one time that were tight but noisy, and when I took them off they were really chewed inside, especially the rear. As I recall, they vibrated quite a bit too. This was about 30 years ago, and age fogs the memory (!).

Also check the bolts that hold the rear brake drums to the axle for tightness. If they become loose it can cause a squeak or clicking noise that is most noticeable at low speeds.

Good suggestion!

Bob hit it right on the head. You can actually see the rear joint "shift" back to center at the time the ping resonates back into the shaft. I got a new set (will do both while I have the shaft out anyway) but Kanter sent the wrong ones. I think the two-section shaft will help simplify the job.

Thanks again.

I have some notes scribbled on interchanges for 354672 -
Spicer 5-2048, Napa (precision kit) 508, Neapco 280550 x283500(p), TRW 20006, heck I've even got a Ford number B5AZ-4635A, Borg-Warner 114-2048, AEC AE2126, GMB G2100, more if needed...

Are the front and rear joints the same?