Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Still figuring out my options on my fuel pump situation..I have a nice rebuilt fuel pump off a 1940 110…mine is a 1941…first question is ..is the fuel pump for the 41 also supposed to send vacuum to operate my wipers? I have read about this but I don’t see where that works on the mechanical fuel pump I have..it looks like my wipers work with electrical motor..and the fuel pump is for fuel only..I see only an input and discharge line on it..assuming that line from tank in and line out to carb? I have a pass through electric fuel pump already mounted at tank regulated at 3 psi that is powered at ignition…I was hoping to install the mechanical pump and take electric fuel pump off ignition and use independently as a fuel primer only..so my thoughts were to run fuel line from electric fuel pump to the mechanical pump at engine base and then out to carb..would this work? Appreciate any help..I know I have asked about this before somewhat but I now understand a little more about what I have so trying to do it correctly..tks!

Believe the 40 thru 42 - 110's were the few conventional body models that had electric wipers. Clippers thru 47 and the 40's prewar conventional body 110 models had Stewart-Warner electric wipers so only used the single action fuel pump but all others had vacuum wipers and used the dual action fuel pumps.

I think you are correct..mine looks like a single action…seems simple to install and operate off cam I assume..I would like to use it and not have electric pump on continuously but uncertain if I can plumb fuel line from electric fuel pump into mechanical fuel pump or make two separate lines using at tee somewhere …?

The mechanical pump pictured is for pumping fuel only with no ability to provide vacuum for accessories such as windshield wipers. The pump inlet is on the left where the 90-degree elbow is with the outlet to the carburetor on the right.

My 1954 Convertible has an electric pump in the fuel line near the fuel tank and the mechanical pump mounted on the engine block under the manifolds. The electric pump was installed by the prior owner and is activated by a toggle switch mounted under the dash. I only use it to prime the carburetor when the car has been unused for a length of time. The system works fine with a single line running from the tank through the electric pump and to the mechanical pump with no need for separate fuel lines.

I have a 1940 110, the lever on the fuel pump rides on the bottom of the cam. Depending on the position of the lobe on the cam it can be difficult to hold it in place and get the bolts in due to limited space if you are working over the top of the fender(not room for both hands to work) I stuck the gasket on the pump with gasket sealer and used one all thread stud to help get it in place. when I got the second bolt in place I removed the stud and replaced it with a bolt. Make sure the kids are out of the garage you might be giving them a lesson in the kings english. The pump you have pictured looks correct. My 40 has electric wipers. crawl under your dash, the motor is right in the center. Or turn the on with the car not running and the key on and see if they move.
Jim Long

Thanks..that’s what I was looking for and hoped to do..appreciate it..

Luckily..I have the fender and inner fender off! Everything I’ve done from above has been difficult! Putting starter in was a chore solo…

I can't tell from the photo if that pump has or used the fiber insulating bushings in the holes but be sure to place a bolt thru the holes before trying to mount the pump and check the size and clearance. If the bolt slides thru with minimal to no play then use as is but if the clearance between bolt and hole is such that a good amount of daylight -- say 1/16" or greater is all around the bolt then the pump needs the fiber bushings so make sure you have them or can do a suitable replacement. The gasket between pump and block is also thicker than normal -- almost 1/8" -- and is used as a heat insulator as well as a gasket so if you don't have one of those you might want to use two or even three regular thickness gaskets stacked to make up the extra thickness.

Max Merritt has bushing kits or I believe Ross posted that he has used strips of gasket paper wrapped around the bolt to take up the space in place of the bushings. The fiber washers should also be used between the pump body and flat washer under the bolt head to cut down on heat transfer from the block and bolts to the pump. The fuel pump bolts are usually the type that is wired to keep them tight since with the addition of the softer fiber washers the use of a lockwasher generally does little to no good.

Jim ..have you ever cleaned the oil screen in the oil pan?? I can’t figure out if it’s supposed to come out or how it comes out for cleaning….

The oil pickup float can be removed, but the screen is part of the float.

You just have to soak it to clean it.