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Thanks! I’ve only used #000 and #0000. That has worked great for some things, but I’ve struggled to make much difference on a few really rough pieces, especially my rear bumper. But, the issue with my rear bumper is mostly a lot of deep scratches from numerous push-start attempts.

I don't believe steel wool will remove scratches from chrome. I use it for dirty, tarnished and rusty chrome.
You might get some light scratches out with wet sanding and then polishing, but someone else may say something different.

I shipped my lower bumper off today to Nashville. We will see how that goes.

The images below are from the Restoration Specialties catalog. It shows all the door panel clips. I still have a couple of the original clips and they appear to be the one I have circled below.

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Yeah, I know it won’t remove the scratches, I just didn’t know about trying something a little more coarse to clean them up and shine it up a bit more.

Not sure what those are for, but if you search on the site, the image is a lot different:restorationspecialties.com/2277J-CLP-_p_37118.html

I got a bunch of Auveco 2385 clips for my door cards:warehouse9000.com/products/100-trim-pane ... automobiles-door-trim_112354210250_

Below is a comparison. The left is the typical Packard clip, part 361929. The middle is the alternate style. On my 55 400, this clip is used on the top 2 of the front column of clips. Right is the Auveco clip.

TBH if you are missing some clips, I would just go 100% Auveco as they will hold your door card on way better than the factory ones. Sell those to some perfectionist on eBay. I would imagine it would likewise help with the handle popping off issue that these cars have.

P.S. Photo here of the actual 2277J. Doesn't seem to be worth buying even if you can get them.

My dad's

Is one on left. All are same

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I finally received the refaced, upper window channel for the rear quarter windows.
It only took 11 months.

To be fair to Restoration Specialties, I sent them in April of 24, right at the beginning of car season.
Every time I called they were getting ready for a swap meets of some type or another.
One time it was a mini bike swap meet but as soon as car season ends they can get caught up on repairs like mine.

There is a lesson there to anyone wanting to send their in for repair.
You might want to wait until autumn to send them in.
Total cost was $157.

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I am going to remount the front seat soon.
The image below is one of the original wood pieces that went cab floor and the seat rail "foot".

Did all the bolts have wood spaces like this?
I can make new ones; I just want to know their intended purpose.

Is the seat grounded to the frame? In my testing of the seat motor I have had to run a separate ground line to a near by bolt on the body. Just wondering how it was originally grounded.

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Parts book only lists two used for 55 senior models and I believe they were only on the front. It was to tip the seat back for a more comfortable sitting position and I believe more could be added or they could also be used at the rear corners depending on driver preference of laid back or sitting more upright desires or to raise the entire seat for shorter drivers. Other years also had various combos of wood and cardboard shims also customizable per driver.

Indeed, over the years there have been several Service Letters were issued on the various wood shims and wedges used to raise, or adjust the seating position.

Also on the earlier cars modifying the seat tracks themselves to lower the seating position for taller drivers.

Which they must have been giants, as on the 37, I needed to raise the back of the seat for me to comfortable see over the car....and I'm 6'4".