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Removing 1941 door
#1
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Jimmyk
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So I’m stripping what’s left of old paint and removing doors for body and paint restoration.. it appears that at some point the hinge pin was welded to hinge! Thought it was just rusted on but it looks welded.. my other option is removing the three screws that go through body.. but I don’t know where those screws are attached? By nuts? Or are they going into a threaded part of body? I don’t want to remove them and then have to take apart the interior to re attach from inside? Any thoughts? Tks it a 41 110…
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Posted on: 4/19 7:50
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Re: Removing 1941 door
#2
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West Peterson
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They're threaded into the jam.

Posted on: 4/19 9:41
West Peterson
1930 Packard Speedster Eight boattail (SOLD)
1940 Packard 1808 w/Factory Air (SOLD)
1947 Chrysler Town and Country sedan
1970 Camaro RS
1936 Cord phaeton

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=4307&forum=10

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Re: Removing 1941 door
#3
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HH56
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Unless you are very lucky, if they are like other doors the screws and threads in the jamb will probably be quite rusty and may be torqued down very tight as well. If yours is suspect, suggest you start using penetrating fluid a day or two ahead along with a periodic renewal so it can soak a bit before you attempt removal. No idea if the conventional body jambs had caged or weld on nuts or was just an open threaded tapped hole with screw threads exposed behind the jamb but if rust is really bad, you may still need to remove the kickpanel or whatever to try and get access to the back for an application of penetrating fluid.

By all means use the proper larger size screwdriver for the type screws you have or you stand a good chance of damaging the slot or Philips cross if they are really tight. You may even need to have a driver bit for your socket wrench and some screws have even needed impact tools. Conventional body hinges may be different but the Clippers and most all later models also had a hidden screw approximately centered inside the hinge that will only be seen and accessed if the door is almost full open.

Posted on: 4/19 10:35
Howard
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Re: Removing 1941 door
#4
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Packard Don
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I typically use an impact screwdriver for door jamb screws but soaking first as Howard suggested is mandatory! As for the welded pin, I don’t recall it being welded on my 1940 110s but it’s been too many decades to be sure.

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Posted on: 4/19 10:59
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Re: Removing 1941 door
#5
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Jimmyk
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So I got the top three screws loosened to top hinge … it looks like there is no way to remove hinge pin…so I tried the three screws holding hinge to body but they are not moving…the #3 Phillips driver is not doing the job and #4 won’t fit…I’ve soaked the screws in pb blaster but I can feel the screw is going to strip if I go any harder…I may have to either drill out the hinge pin or the three screws…I’ll keep soaking for now.. tks

Posted on: 4/19 11:21
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Re: Removing 1941 door
#6
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Packard Don
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That’s where the impact screwdriver does the job. You hit the end with a hammer which not only turns it but it also forces it to stay in the screw. Heat sometimes helps but I wouldn't do that unless the body is completely stripped down of anything flammable.

Posted on: 4/19 11:37
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Re: Removing 1941 door
#7
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Jimmyk
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Ah ok.. I don’t have an impact number 3… I will get one and try that tomorrow tks

Posted on: 4/19 11:52
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Re: Removing 1941 door
#8
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Jimmyk
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Got pin out finally! Good thing as all but one of the hinge mounting screws were stripped terribly or already broken off… now that door is off I m going to drill out screws so door can be aligned down the road.. tks for the advice!

Posted on: Today 5:05
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