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I have a clunking in the front of my '37 115C. My mechanic buddy got underneath and had a look and diagnosed it as being the steering arm or the pitman arm bushing. I didn't have a shop manual with me at the car and I put it on the to do list. Can anyone tell me if this will be a big production or a fairly straight forward replacement? He is willing to help me but I am not set up with a lift or other more specialized equipment.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts ... lateNumber=2432&partslist=1935-1941

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1937-1938_ShopManual.pdf

The part plate and manual appear decent in terms of operations.

Trying to think of what bushing he is referring to?

The steering cross tube uses ball and sockets type connections where everything attached to it. If first make sure the end caps that cross tube are tightened properly. One side uses a cotterpin to retain the cap, and the orherside uses an odd u-shapped pin because off the grease fitting to retain the cap.

Inside that tube are the two pieces of each socket cup and spacer and springs. The end caps set the tension on all of that.

I'd check that center link (steering crank on the diagram) that attaches the steering cross tube to pivot on the front cross-member. The original style is an open-style "bicycle" bearing which would need to be replaced if haven't been already. A newer style sealed bearing is available. When that bearing fails, that add a lot play/clunk to the system as well.

You can grab that crank arm try pulling is side to side. If front end of it moves (vs turns), that bearing is toast.

Isn't there an actual bronze center bushing on some models at the crossmember location circled? I seem to recall several posts mentioning that due to a missed grease fitting and lack of lubrication there had been issues with a bushing wearing to the point the 15.100 arm would have substantial up and down movement.

Howard, the area you have circled in red originally used bicycle style bearings. When they fail, there is a lot of clunking and slop in the center steering arm.

CartRich, replacing the bearings requires nothing more than a floor jack and hand tools, although you do have to remove one coil spring. I've done it twice now, on the two '37s I've owned, and it's a weekend project.

If the bearings are bad, you can source modern replacements at Napa, etc. The PN I used (qty 2) was 6203-FFA.

If you decide to tackle the job, details are in my blog - post #55.