Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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Yes. I used materials from Flock It. The overall job was not hard but was messy. End result turned out presentable but not quite like the original finish. Original finish used coarse rayon fibers but rayon fibers today are a much finer consistency. Modern nylon fibers are coarser and longer so more like the original rayon but still much smaller and gives a smoother than original finish.

The main concerns I had with repeated dropping of the tank was 1.) draining fuel/potential for spills/fire/etc, 2.) stripping the drain plug bung (my original tank had that problem) and 3.) stripping the threads at the fuel line connection. The more the tank needs to be dropped the more potential there is for a problem.

The issue with the new senders that are available now is that they are not the same dimensions and travel as the original. The arm is too short, leading to inaccurate readings. Electrically mine tested fine, but the readings were way off because of the shorter arm and slightly different bend. In the end I bent it so I can at least have an accurate reading when the tank was below 1/4. The only way to get fully accurate readings is to lengthen the arm on the sender. I'm not sure all new senders have this problem, but I'll bet they do because they are basically all the same....using the '57 Ford Thunderbird sender.

Anyways, didn't mean to open a can of worms here. I don't want to derail the OP's topic anymore. It's an option if he wants to do it.

I kept the old working electric fuel pump that I pulled out of the Jackard. It was a noisey SOB.

But, it works great with a couple pieces of long hose to quicky drain a tank from the fill tube directly into a gas can(s).

Once it it's drained down as much as can be sucked out. There is probably less than 1/4 gallon in the tank. It's as lite is it's going to get.

I can then wrestle the tank in and by myself with the car on Jack Stands. A block of wood and a floor jack help when your working alone. Especially on reinstall when you trying to fuss with getting the strap bolts started.

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I use the factory installed tank evacuator. It takes a few hours, but is a very enoyable process.

Working on the pump now. No progress really the past two days to other obligations.

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This valve is stuck from what looks like someone hammering part of the housing onto the valve. Should I still try to remove this?

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That's how they're held in place. I suggest watching the video I shared.

Thank you. I rewatched it and all valves are removed now. I'm currently cleaning the parts in a sonic cleaner. Rust was present in the bowl on the fuel side. Aluminum or some sort of other corrosion heavily present on the vacuum side.

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You're not getting your hands dirty. That's half the fun!

As for cleaning the parts in a sonic cleaner, that's what I do too but rather than filling it with expensive carburetor cleaner, I use a smaller amount in a container (even a Zip-lock freezer bag will do, depending on the type of cleaner being used) that can be filled and sealed and put inside the machine with the cleaner's tank itself being filled with plain water. For greasy parts, I do the same thing but with solvent. It does that same job but is far less messy! On occasion, I've also had to blast parts and my blaster has only crushed walnut shell media but I wouldn't try it with actual sand or glass bead as that might damage the castings.

Oops on the gloves. Haha.

I wish I would have ordered the kit that doesn't require assembly of the plunger gaskets. Pardon my terminology. Reading the instructions now before reassembly. I didn't sonic clean the main body. Just brake cleaner.

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