Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Spud.

I made a long rod with a female end to go over pump shaft.

Then used a drill to turn pump. , better than cranking.

Also one way to prime it.

Quote:

I should perhaps clarify that that is the engine I'm NOT using, that was in the car when I bought it. 🙂

Riki, packards1 on eBay has a set. I also know a guy with an NOS pump body lying around. Just in case...

I decided to install my modified oil pump design. I poured some STP oil treat in the pump to help it prime, when I assembled it. I also prelubricated the engine when rebuilding it so I'm not really worried about priming. All the air will pass thru the oil filter and I have a bourdon oil pressure gauge in the glovebox that I can keep an eye on.

The Hash pump was 4 (driving) and 5 (driven) on the gears so it will be a backup.

Made some good progress this week. I will be writing a doc on the oil pan installation as it's a bit tricky in the car, and frequently asked about.

I have a dumb problem on the steering linkage. Somehow one of the threads got a bit tweaked on the tie rod ends (to the knuckle) and the nut doesn't want to go on all the way. Nothing really to grip there to keep it from spinning. Any advice?

Got the new radiator hose on. I cut it where indicated (note the 2 inch end is down in this photo) then again about 1 inch shorter. You can see it's a little kinked still. Does it need to be even shorter?

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20250603-082425_Gallery.jpg (1,966.91 KB)


  Screenshot_20250603-082405_Gallery.jpg (2,012.74 KB)


  20250601_194938.jpg (9,601.29 KB)

I think on the hose it would be ideal to have less constriction, but not sure how much less you are going to get. I have a bit of constriction with the lower curve on my '54. As far as I know it hasn't created an issue.