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Spud.

I made a long rod with a female end to go over pump shaft.

Then used a drill to turn pump. , better than cranking.

Also one way to prime it.

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I should perhaps clarify that that is the engine I'm NOT using, that was in the car when I bought it. 🙂

Riki, packards1 on eBay has a set. I also know a guy with an NOS pump body lying around. Just in case...

I decided to install my modified oil pump design. I poured some STP oil treat in the pump to help it prime, when I assembled it. I also prelubricated the engine when rebuilding it so I'm not really worried about priming. All the air will pass thru the oil filter and I have a bourdon oil pressure gauge in the glovebox that I can keep an eye on.

The Hash pump was 4 (driving) and 5 (driven) on the gears so it will be a backup.

Made some good progress this week. I will be writing a doc on the oil pan installation as it's a bit tricky in the car, and frequently asked about.

I have a dumb problem on the steering linkage. Somehow one of the threads got a bit tweaked on the tie rod ends (to the knuckle) and the nut doesn't want to go on all the way. Nothing really to grip there to keep it from spinning. Any advice?

Got the new radiator hose on. I cut it where indicated (note the 2 inch end is down in this photo) then again about 1 inch shorter. You can see it's a little kinked still. Does it need to be even shorter?

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I think on the hose it would be ideal to have less constriction, but not sure how much less you are going to get. I have a bit of constriction with the lower curve on my '54. As far as I know it hasn't created an issue.

Thanks Kevin. I took off the amount after the clamp (see the previous post), perhaps 3/8", and it looks better now. Think it will be fine. All the hoses are on and the radiator is bolted down.

Steering linkage is reinstalled completely but the toe-in needs adjusted. I'll just try the board and tape measure method. To fix the nut problem I realized the top threads were a bit mushroomed from removal. Just took them off with a grinding wheel. They actually don't even engage with the castle nut when it's all the way on, so no problem at all.

Installed the transmission lines and their clips, transmission dipstick tube, and replaced the engine oil pan drain plug washer.

Got the bumper on and adjusted the cam bolts to the lowest setting for ease of installing the grille later.

I'm planning to get the fluids in tomorrow when it's daylight to check for leaks.

First time it's been back on all 4 tires since March 9, 2024.

Bonus fender skirt pic. No it will not attach permanently. 🙈

Dangerously close to liftoff...

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Progress is great! One step closer to being on the road.

The image upload from the top icon is far easier to use than the attachment method at the bottom. It can even handle drag and drop although I’ve been too successful in using that feature.

The Clipper is coming along quite nicely!