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Not till next winter

Well the door looks pretty good. Too bad no one will ever see it once the interior door panels go back on.

Most of the doors back together. Just need to put the window tracks and glass back in.

We may never see it, but you’ll always know!

Finished reassembling the doors. Replacement regulator spring came in from the Dallas Zone (thanks to Flackmaster) and went in without issue.

There is for sure an order of operation when putting all the inards back in the door. Pro-tip, the inside door handle/linkage has to go in first.

Finally part are coming up from the basement and back onto the car.




I also got the door panels and kick panels installed. I had to do some surgery on the door panels to fix deformed and broken clips, and also the odd clip retainers that pull out of the door card.




The door panels are actually original ones, but they came used from a 36. They are still holding in there.... just barely.

The carpet won't go back in until after the motor comes back as I'll need to pull the floorboard to reinstall the transmission.

Since I've made sheet metal and struture repairs to areas behind the B-Pillars, the doors aligned better than I've ever seen the, and now close like a bank vault door.

That's looking so good Kev. I really like the green you chose for the paint.

Thanks, that is Jackard Green No. 4!

This color started as a Suburu color, which was then converted from a B/C Urethane to S/S Enamel color.

The original formula was like 21 parts medium metal flake and 21 parts coarse metallic flake. We removed all that metallic and replaced it with 3 parts ultra fine metallic powder.

The color is totally different in the sun. This is in the garage, do not direct-direct sun.

I'm pretty sure the transmission snubber on the Jackard was past it intended service life.




New one installed.




Also, new transmission to frame ground strap.




And got more of the interior panels roughly back into place

I brought the front seat parts, frame, tracks, etc up from the basement so I can mock up the exact seat placement, and also plug the old holes in the floor.

But to get to the seats in the crawlspace area of basement, I had to pull the top assembly out of that area first. So I figured I would just toss that back on the car first.

I'm looking for pictures on how upholstery is supposed to look/materials in the following area as they were stripped out on my car at some point in the past.

1) The wood filler strips that screw into the b-pillars. They appeared to have been wrapped in some kind of fabric/leatherette/bow-drill cloth. Also I think there may have been some windlace attached between that filler wood and wood in pillar channel itself.

2) The cover/finish panel(s) that cover sheet metal above the package tray and and where the top material attaches.

3) The upholstery/panel structure as it comes up to where the convertible top pivot is on the B-pillar. There are two upholstery nails on the inside top of the pillar. So some kind of panel or material ended there.

4) How the package tray cover terminated behind the seat.

Any help is appreciated. I'm pretty visual, so I need to see pictures to get a good understanding.

Currently the backup light in the '37 is a manual affair. Swtich under the dash.

But, I figured out how to add one to '37 transmission for about $10 in parts. Only modification to transmission is to one of the core plugs that cover the shifter selector rods bores.




So this is switch I used:







$5.99 at AutoZone.

The switch takes a 12mm x 1.5 thread.

The core plug is fairly thin, and when the transmission is in reverse, it's probably less than 1/8" from the plug. So threading it into the core plug is not an option.

So I ran to the store and bought a 12mm nut and jam nut.

I nut is pretty close to same diameter of the core plug. So ground the nut mostly round, and then chamferred the lower edge. Then I welded the nut to the core plug.




Just 5 or 6 tacks, and ground it to restore the diameter of the plug. You could fully weld it, but not needed.

Then I enlarged hole in the middle of the core plug so the non-threaded portion of switch could pass through it.




Some black permatex sealer along the edges and then seated the core plug backing it's bore. You should then let the permatex completely cure.

Put transmission into reverse. Screw the jam nut all the way onto the switch and then screw in the switch until in stops, then back it out about 1/2 turn to give it and the shifter rod a little clearance before for dead stop.

The holding the remains of that welded nut with some vice gripd to keep it from twisting the core plug out of the bore, tighten the jam nut to lock the switch into postion.




Test it out. Using a multimeter set to continuity, in any gear other then reverse the switch should show open (no continuity). No screeching noise on my meter.




When it reverse gear, it should show continuity. My meter is now screeching.




Electrically you wire it from ignition power source, down to the switch, and then out to backup light. If you already have a dash switch controlling the backup light the you remove the wires from that switch and reroute then to this one.

Now anytime the car goes into reverse, then backup light will come on when the igniton is on. Alternatively it come also be wired to get power from the headlight swtich then it will only come on when it reverse and the headlights are on. But I think the first way is better so people know when your tring to back up during the day as well. If this is a net new circuit, I would install a fuse on the power feed to the swtich, just in case. It a perfect world, an adapter could be made to replace the core plug with a piece that is machined to fit into the bore and also allow the switch to screw in. But for my purpose, my backyard bugger welds are just fine.