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Taxman said
Quote:

On my 41 Clipper the throttle linkage mounts there on both sides of the block as it goes over to the carb.

DanL

images taken with my blackberry yesterday. Hauled the 36 120B frame on a tow dolly over to where the body was painted. I rent 2 (40x60) units in Frankfort, and one I co-rent with a mustang guy (and that unit has a paint booth). We put the finished painted body on the frame yesterday (the doors and hood and radiator shell are painted). color is "bonnie grey" a greenish grey formula of the 30s. We're doing black fenders later (probably spring) as they won't be needed while I do other stuff. Letting the body paint cure for a while, then buff out. Nice to get them back together. Welded new 18 gauge floor. The frame has new gas and brake lines and muffler system. I have new 7:00x16 ganster wide whitewall tires coming from Coker next week. Next up, re-wire dash this winter and work more on the engine. Still have to get to the front suspension and about 100 other things...but it's a step at a time.

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This weekend I decided to pull the engine and tranny before going further (the preliminary reason, was that after recently pulling the inspection cover of the bottom tranny, I discovered the clutch disc was toast (partially disinigrated, probably because it sat for over 30+ years and?) AND I wanted to have it easier to clean the oil pan and pump, etc... After pulling the engine (which came out with the hoist within minutes after disconnecting linkage and motor mount bolts, removed the oil pan and it is full of sludge. although the images are not great, in the one with the oil pan, you can actually see the imprint of the pump screen which sits low to the bottom of the pan. It was totally built-up sludge and had I run the engine, would have not gotten far. I had a fellow (who will work for cash and do anything) help me (he is in the photo with the blue Kentucky Sweatshirt).
Had a problem removing the transmission from the bell housing and engine....one of the end bearings is frozen/rusted and needs to be torched. Once torched, can remove the disc plate and presssure plate and get replacements. I am told the disc and plate are sold in matching sets...and its best to remove them first to ensure that you have the correct one for the car (hoping someone in the past didn't put something else there AND because of the core charges. Removing the engine also allowed me to get to some other spots before finalizing everything. while I'm cleaning up everything, going to inspect the rear main seal as well and make sure everything appears okay. This will be my only change once I get everything assembled and get the engine running by spring.

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I'm sure you are glad now that you pulled the motor for a proper inspection. What I don't understand is your comment about torching a bearing to get the tranny out?

the transmission would not pull out of the bell housing...the shaft was hung up on the pressure plate and disc. With considerable prying, we managed to get 5 inches of separation and turned the engine/tranny over to see what was going on. A bearing on the very end of the shaft is frozen and will not budge (preventing us from pulling the tranny and shaft out). We were planning on torching it (heating it up) so the bearing will slide accordingly and the tranny can be removed .... then replace the disc and pressure plate. The bell housing bolts internally to the back of the engine (of course we do not need to remove the bell housing).
Not sure the name for this bearing, but its on the absolute end of the tranny shaft.
Has anyone had this problem, or is there something I am missing?

Quote:Is this the clutch actuating bearing(the "throw-out" bearing)? If so it is attached to the snout on the front of the trans by one or two springs which need to be disconnected, an awkward job but doable, before the trans can be slid back.

Quote:Is that right? I think all the bellhousing bolts are on the external edge of the bellhousing, but then again I have been wrong on numerous occassions.

I'll check that out.....this bearing is at the very end of the shaft (towards the fly wheel)

External edge? I see 2 bolts on the bottom and 2 on the top. The 2 on the top would take a very long wrench (and with the flywheel present, there's about 1 inch of clearance max).

As I look at diagram in the clutch/tranny book, it looks like the fly wheel has a tighening bolt to keep it from moving on the shaft (?)
Always learning.....

On some other vehicles I have worked on, the bell housing tightened on the outside (accessbile from the engine side)....

There's probably something we are not doing right...it shouldn't be this much trouble to remove the tranny from the bell housing......have to get it out so we can remove and replace the clutch....

Quote: A very small bearing(pilot bearing?) in the middle of the flywheel boss/hub?

Quote: I obviously stand corrected, please disregard my previous comment. Always tripping up

Mal, you have to remove the flywheel to get the bolts out, there's two at the very top, two in the middle, and two on the bottom. The only way to remove the bellhousing is to remove the flywheel, as the bolts are inside the bellhousing.

I had trouble removing the trans from a '53 Clipper, until I realized that it was the spring going from the front bearing retainer to the throwout bearing that wasn't connected. If you got your's out to 5", then it wasn't this spring. If the pilot bearing's stuck on the end of the input shaft, it probably won't go beyond the clutch disc, and that's what's stopping you up.

Quote:Eric,
Once again a terrible case of foot-in-mouth disease. Will have to temper my enthusiasm with a large dose of reality. That is: