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Greetings All,

Has anyone had problems with having to replace head gaskets more than once? I'm on my 3rd one and can't figure out why this is occurring. This has been occuring over the last 4-5 years, but before that it ran fine.

I've had the head machined some time back as it was a bit warped, but not sure if the corresponding face on the engine block was done when it was originally rebuilt.

Seems like I remember reading once that an oversized head gasket needed to be used to replace the thickness machined off, but don't know if this is true or not.

Thanks
Gene

Need more details on the leak. Always leak at the same place???? Leaks at how many places????? leaks compreession and or collant????

I would have the block deck checked to make sure it's completely flat? Also have you replaced the head studs? If they are bottoming out you might not be getting a tight enough seal.

I'm not familiar with the Packard8. But i am assuming as general eng'ring practice that HARDENED steel washers are used under the head stud nuts. Are any of the head nuts loosening????

I'm not familiar with the Packard8. But i am assuming as general eng'ring practice that HARDENED steel washers are used under the head stud nuts

When the old washers beneath the head nuts are questionable, I usually buy aircraft quality hardened and ground flat-and-parallel washers from a place like MSC. When installating a head other than one from the same engine (for example, a 327 head on a 359), check to insure that there is enough thread length on the stud; if the nut bottoms out before it is tight, you'll likely break the stud, usually in the block!

Cylinder heads that are out-of-plane by perhaps 0.010" or so do not require resurfacing. Even if a head has not been surfaced, check for sufficient clearance between the valve heads and the cylinder head. Follow the tightenting sequence, retorque again after 10 minutes of running, and at least one more time after a few hours of running.

The attached my be helpful.

PS - notice that leaving the thermostat housing and the heater elbow pipe on the head make handy lifting points, as in the picture.

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"..but before that it ran fine.
I've had the head machined some time back as it was a bit warped, but not sure if the corresponding face... "

Usualy, the machined surface for the head nut/bolt contact area is not spot faced parallel to the new milled surface of the head. This can cause the nuts/bolt heads to contact the head at an angle makeing torque readings vary widely.

The problem here is that u indicated in your first post above that head gasket leakage was not problem BEFORE the rebuild. The head should have never been milled. Milling of heads and block decks are for conditions that are usualy conspicuous or for hard core racing.

First follow Owens sage advice as he posted above to see if the problem can be solved.

An old machinist one told me that head bolts under tension can actually pull up the surrounding area over time--similar to what happens to an oil pan with the bolts stretching and raising the hole areas. He said it was more important to verify the top of block was smooth and surfaced and touch up the heads only if necessary as they would pull down within reason. Not an engine expert and don't know if this is a true statement or not. Packards are made of pretty good quality iron but if true, another thing to think about.

HH56, what you old time machinist said is no doubt true, but I've never seen it to and extent where is was an issue as there is plenty of squish-room in the gasket. But a close inspection of the studs where they exit the block would be a good thing to do.

Hi,

Seems to be leaking into the coolant as the temp shoots up over 200 degrees.

Thanks

It has been overheating big time, goes over 200 degrees driving 45-50 mph.

Thanks