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Is there a good ground connection between generator and regulator. Some have a wire directly between generator and regulator (may also tie to sheetmetal along the way), others rely on a good connection via sheetmetal and/or various mounting screws only. No matter which, important that both gen frame and reg frame be at same relative potential and no corrosion, paint or other dirty connection lets one float above the other.

Yes. We tested all grounds. Brand new wiring harness as well.

West, how it the battery itself? If it is weak it may never take a full charge and could be signaling the generator and regulator to overcharge all the time and eventually kill either the regulator and generator.

It was brand new when the first regulator went out. The battery is now 4 years old, but still seems to be okay.

With some fuel issues developing during times when fuel issues shouldn't be appearing, I decided to finally rebuild my mechanical AC dual-action pump. While my windshield wipers work quite well, upon acceleration, they slowed down significantly... another indication that the fuel pump may need some attention.

Taking Big Kev's lead, I decided to rebuild it myself using his directions that he has posted.

It turns out that Big Kev's dual-action pump is quite different on the inside than mine, but since mine actually seemed a little simpler, the best thing I took away from his directions is that it's something you can do on your own kitchen table (I'm the king of my castle... when my wife's not at home)


My 15-year-old son helped me through the whole process.

ONE THING, though, that Kev does not show or tell about in his instructions is that the diaphragms need to be "pre-loaded" before screwing down the fuel and air bodies.
If the fuel casting screws are tightened while the diaphragm assemble is relaxed, it will tend to get stretched (when put into service) to the point of elongating the screw holes in it, and eventually the material will fail causing a leak. This is more important on the fuel side than on the vacuum side.

To "pre-load" the diaphragm, you want the assembly (rocker arm) pulled down as far as it will go before tightening the screws. On the vacuum side you only want to bring the arm far enough to see the diaphragm material flatten out between the two castings before tightening the screws.

When I get some time, I will put together a how-to, as I took photos during the entire process.

The first photo is my son, David. This shows him screwing the fuel assembly together BEFORE we realized that we needed to "pre-load" the assembly, which involves the use of a bench vise and two sets of hands.

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The other important thing in rebuilding a fuel pump is making sure the casting mating surfaces are flat. With time, and pressure from the parts being screwed together, they tend to warp, causing leaks.

It's a simple procedure. We used 220-grit dry sand paper and a flat surface dragged the bodies in a circular formation until all points were touching.

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Since installing the fuel pump, I've put a few hundred miles on the car driving to Louisville and back, and touring around town. So far it seems to have helped. In-town driving in very hot temperatures and I have not had to turn on the electric pump. I have used the electric pump after stopping for gas on the freeway, just because I didn't want to take the chance of wearing down my battery in case it wasn't going to start.

Wow. You have provided me with lots of experience to fall back on- I after I get the engine satisfactory, I am starting on the chassis and all components. Thanks for the mention of the Lever Shock place in San Diego that is close by for me, so I will use them. Did you replace the rear motor mounts also? Don't they have to be sent in for re-vulcanizing?

I have not yet had to replace the rear engine mounts. I think you are right. They would have to be revulcanized.

It's been a slow spring for me as far as working or fixing small things on my car. After about six years, I finally had to replace the battery I bought from Advance Auto. I'm surprised it lasted that long, especially since I did not spend much time taking care of it. No trickle charger, stayed in the car during storage most of the time, etc. I think for one or two winters, I brought it into the basement, and might have charged it once or twice.

I have obtained a set of running board side trim that would be correct for a 1941-42 model, but they are incorrect for 1940. Mine are supposed to be fluted, but the cost of the reproductions are far more than I'd like to spend ($800 for a set of two, if I remember correctly). I'm not saying they're not worth the money, I just can't afford them.

I feel badly about putting the wrong ones on the car, because from what I see of 1940 Packard restorations, almost all are getting the wrong trim, and soon no one will know what is correct. It upsets me to see a 100-point restoration with the wrong trim on the running boards. Afterall, some of the cars I see must have $50,000-$100,000 spent. Certainly they could have spent the extra $800 for the correct trim.

Some day, when I can afford it, I will replace the wrong ones with correct ones. Hopefully, they'll still be available when I want them.