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Thanks for the adived on stripping.

I have positivly ID'ed the manifold. It is for a 55 Caribbean 352 V8, or the 1956 374 V8. Cuurent paint is clearly not original.

I removed the 3 studs it had and all the threaded carb holes have good threads and the threads have been chased.

I attached a pic.

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Yes, It's a Packard Caribbean intake.
No, you'll have no problem selling it. I'm guessing you have several PMs asking for first-grabs.
Maybe, you should post your asking price here first to save yourself eBay fees.

thnx, jack vines

OK, I'm asking $800 including shipping.

That last one on Eprey went for $618, plus shipping, was heavily rusted and needed the carb mounting surfaces resurfaced at least, and had heavy corrosion in the port runners. This one is relatively clear of rust, the runners are more rust free than rusty, and that is faint/light. This one clearly was not stored outside in the rain.

If it does not sell very soon, I will strip it down, using my Electrolysis tank, which will strip off the gold paint someone saw fit to spray it down with, as well as any rust it does have, and make it as near new as you can get a fifty year old piece of CI. (I don't know what I was thinking when I mentioned bead blasting, I stopped doing that years ago. Habit and not using the E tank for a few years I guess)

This may be a bit off topic, but could you post some information on your electrolysis tank? If it removes rust without damaging anything, I want to learn more. Thanks,
Bernardi

A reasonably sized commercial yet affordable tank would be interesting. If you do a google search for "electrolysis tank" several articles come up with some how to's for the do it yourselfer. Some are interesting and practical--others maybe a stretch or too elaborate.

A bottle of Evapo-rust would do wonders on that without having to mess around with water and electricity!

Thanks, I'll check them both out.



Bernardi

OK, Electrolysis:

Parts needed;

Plastic tank
Iron rods, screen, or other sacrificial iron (DON'T use SS!)
Spa or swimming pool PH + (Not acid)
Battery charger (Really big parts may require a bigger power source. I've read where a DC welder was used, but that was for an entire frame)


The Plastic reservoir needs to hold both the parts AND the sacrificial iron, (This is the Anode)

Small parts may only need a 5 gal bucket, larger parts perhaps a Rubbermaid tub, very large parts a plastic 55 gal drum, full frames - make a shallow 'pool" using plastic sheet, with something to support the sides, (Think oversized water bed frame) and a grid of rebar.

You want the anode to have mostly line of site to the part to be de-rusted. Scrap steel/iron, rebar... I'm about to redo my anode setup using 2x4 heavy wire screen (No plating here!)

Make a way to support the part to be de-rusted, so it does not contact the anode grid. This could be steel support wire or bricks on the bottom to support the part.
Fill with water and add maybe ? cup of the spa chemical to a couple or three gallons of water. (This is not particularly a fussy ratio)

Connect the battery charger, + Positive clip to the Anode, and the - Negative to the part to be de-rusted. (Backwards is a disaster!) - Be SURE to keep the charger clips out of the water. (Plan for this when you set it up!)

Turn the charger on. If you have a high and low setting, start with low. If that does not get the bubbles going, set it to high. The Bubbles are your indicator it's working (It may take a few or ten minutes). If is still doesn't work, make sure you have continuity to your part and anode. (Paint is a good insulator, so is heavy rust...)

This will usually strip paint, along with the rust. If the process slows or stops, shut down and pull the anode out, and scrub off the rusty gunk, and reassemble.

Best of all this is a non toxic process with one exception.

DO NOT DO THIS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE AND DO NOT DO IT NEAR A COMBUSTION SOURCE. - THOSE BUBBLES? HYDROGEN GAS... REMEMBER THE ZEPPELIN FIRE? HYDROGEN GAS...

Also note that this is a SLOW process, and will ordinarily leave a black residue that will usually scrub off with a stiff nylon scrub brush.

The solution will last indefinitely, but will evaporate. Just add plain water, the spa chemical does not evaporate. If you think you are done with the solution you can dump it almost anywhere.

Use this for iron and steel parts only!

FYI, the one in the pics I posted has been sold, and shipped.

As I said, it didn't take long to sell. Was the buyer on this forum or somewhere else?

jack vines