Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Stupid with an explanation:

I went to school during the day, therefore my math skills are deficient late at night. Also missed the humor, that used to be during the evening with Milton Berle, Jack Benny and Groucho.

Ten lashes with a rear fender antenna mast nylon insert.OK?

Fred Kanter
Kanter Auto Products
Boonton NJ

Quote:

Anyone who posts such a question may not take the above quote for the tongue in cheek one that it is. He has probably already deformed the valve covers beyond repair by trying to stop the leaks by over tightening the bolts.

To answer the original question I would remove the valve covers, clean off all the old gasket and sealant, and try to flatten the flange around where the bolts go through. The mating surface should be as flat as possible. Use a straight edge to check it. Then, if you must, a little Permetex "B" ( non hardening type ) on the surfaces will do. Be sure to use a new gasket. Check the repair manual for the torque required and don't exceed that spec. I have not looked up the correct torque however it should be in inch pounds not foot pounds. If it still leaks the valve cover is still not flat enough or you have over torqued the thing again and deformed the metal. Remember that saying " if a little torque is good then a lot is better" is not a true statement.

BTW I only use sealant on the side of the gasket that faces the valve cover. Mostly to hold the gasket in place wile the cover is installed. This way you can remove the cover without making a mess for serves. If the gasket comes off with the valve cover in one piece you can most likely just reinstall it without leaks.

I've had never had an issue with leaks on any gasket surfaces since I switched to using Copper Gasket spray. Spray it on both sides of the gasket, and give it a few minute to tack up. Works great and is comes loose without to much effort. This is all assuming you are dealing with flat mating surfaces.

+1 on Kevin's Copper Gasket spray, I've used it many times and have had great luck with it.

As for Pat Green's post, I'd think that anyone with a minuscule shred of intelligence would know that 740 lbs-ft of torque on a 5/16" diameter bolt is a physical impossibility. But then I do know that not all of us on here are hands on mechanics with an engineering background like some of us are.

Bob 1951 gets it, if the cover is bent all out of shape at the bolt holes no amount of schmoo-go is going to seal it. Get the mating surfaces parallel again (meaning get the cover flat all the way around the cover) and let the gasket do its job.

Thanks all. I'll consider this thread closed now. I also appreciated the fun we had getting to answers along the way.

BUt wait a minute!!!! Don't close it yet!! Let us know what u find out and how u fixxed it. Geeez.

Ya, and don't forget the #2 Permatex b-4 you go trying to hammer on anything, which usually just warps the metal worse than what you started with. (Permatex only needs to go on the cover side of the gasket, unless you've got a gouge on the head side... which then you got trouble.) The nice thing about Permatex is you let it set up a little and it holds the gasket just where you want it when you flip the cover over to bolt it on.

Surprised no one mentioned: Just hand tighten all the fasteners first, then snug them up evenly, starting with the pairs closest to the middle and working your way out... use a short-handled ratchet to avoid over-tightening, which is usually the culprit when they leak.

Oh, and to get the oil off the back of the block, just squirt some "Gunk" engine cleaner back there and rinse it off.