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Purchased some ignition parts at NAPA for my 1954 Packard Clipper Super 8cyl 327ci 165hp engine. RR159 rotor, CS777A points, RR175(DELCO U1511) condenser, and RR158 distributor cap. Replaced the wires on the new cap in same pattern as old cap. Set the points to 0.016" with feeler gauge on the high cam lobe of the distributor shaft. Tried to start the engine..no go. Went back and substituted the old condenser for the new and the old distributor cap for the new one. Still no go. Engine was running fine before I started replacing the ignition parts in the distributor. Doesn't even act like it wants to attempt to fire up. Any ideas? PS, I got the NAPA part numbers from the Packard Parts X-Ref on this website.

Do you have a spark at all? Several have run into problems after doing work in dist because the small fabric covered flex wire inside dist between the points and outside terminal shorts. I would verify that is OK and at least you do have a spark when cranking.

What is your DIST number? It may be the type mine is where the whole thing rotates instead of a flex wire. Had mine gapped at .014, barely sparked and wouldn't start. Gapped at .019 and fired right up. I also had my plugs at .035-.040 for electronic ign, brought them back to .025 i believe, or whatever the service manual said. That solved some issues for me too.

Were the points on the top of the cam when you set the gap? Did you remember to put the rotor back in?

Don't laugh I have done it, and so have others.

Double check everything you did. If still no spark try the old condenser. Sometimes you get a bad one. Of the parts you replaced, the condenser is the only one that can fail to work with no visible sign.

Connect a test lite to the points. One leg of test lite to post on side of distributor. Other leg to body of dist. The lite should come on when points OPEN and NOT shine when points are closed.

Or try the OLD points. Check the CLOTH covered wire as HH56 indicated above.

You said you changed the cap out--if all of the tests listed above don't work out, you could have the wires all one position off. Remove the spark plug from #1 cylinder, put your thumb over the hole and have someone crank the engine until you get a puff of air out of the spark plug hole. bump the starter (very briefly)until the timing indicator is at TDC. pull the cap and see which terminal on the cap the rotor aligns with, it should be #1.

The most important thing is to DIAGNOSE the problem in a logical manner, start from the beginning. Check to see you have voltage at the coil when the ignition switch is turned on. If not, check coil connection/ign switch. Next, with the points in position where they are closed, opoen them with ascrewdriver blade and see if you observe a spark across the points ( cannot do in bright sunlight).

No spark cna be from broken flex wire or film on points, USE a point file,scrape with pocket knife, NOT sandpaper etc.. Also from wire from dist to coil broken or disconnected.

If all is OK so far, then problem is most likely in the cap/rotor. I forgot is it is Delco or A/L, these are general directions.

If rotor has carbon resistance unit in it, it can be missing or broken even on a new one. If the cap has a central carbon button, is it there? A/L is spring loaded, Delco is fixed.

Check that coil to distributor high tension wire is fully plugged into each unit.

A car is a logical being and likes to be treated as such.

Fred, thank you and to all those who tried to help me. I do believe I solved the problem. It appears that the wire lead from the distributor that connects to the point assembly/armature was screwed onto the point connection post with the metal tab from the wire pointing down. Seems like this caused the distributor lead to contact the base plate and cause lack of spark to the system. All is well now. Running like a champ. I knew it had to be something rater simple (operator error) since the car was running fine previously.

Sincerely,
Warren

Thanks for coming back and posting the resolution to the problem. That will help the next guy who reads this.

Exactly correct. That fabric covered wire wears through and shorts. Also I tried for years to use a feeler gauge to set the points with little success. Finally bought a dwell meter, what a difference.

With the car and rotor off turn the key to the on position and use a stab light to see where you are loosing the power. You should have power at the coil lead then at the point connection and if the points are open power to the move able point but not the stationary side.

The only other idea is if the rotor height is incorrect and not touching the leads for the spark plug wires.