Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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Additional you need a small distance sleeve to surround the center rivet for a positive-fit connection instead of a frictional connection.
Posted on: 2011/7/11 12:58
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The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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green: primary arm (with big hole)
grey: the Joe-Santana-superdisc blue: secondary (slipper) arm white: original Packard air Attach file: (17.20 KB)
Posted on: 2011/7/11 13:26
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The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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One uses a Packard to construct another Packard and calls it ZIS and the other one uses the shouldered bushing solution from Howard to construct another shouldered bushing solution and calls it disc with distance sleeve.
Business as usual. Attach file: (26.39 KB)
Posted on: 2011/7/11 16:11
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The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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Quote:
I'd love to help but as you know, I'm stuck with a hydraulic system that looks similar to the example Gusha provided. I should have looked earlier and I might have picked up on the fact that the arms interlock rather than lay atop one another. Unfortunately that's where the similarity ends, the connection on mine is via a single rivet through a much different cut-out. At least it looks like progress is being made. If I had the same set up I would have provided photos long ago.
Posted on: 2011/7/11 17:15
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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Thanks, JD. I can at least put 2 screws in there tonight and see if the action raises and lowers the window.
Posted on: 2011/7/11 17:22
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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Quote:
...but that would push the second hole, the wider one, behind the main arm if the round hole is moved to the center of the large hole. And any repositioning of that secondary arm may prevent the window from going all the way up or down. Joe, at the moment I do not know the function of the second hole (the wider one). Do you know its function? Without "external" function we could use it to get more stability. Let's forget the nice rounded slot in favor of another riveted hole. The below shown drawing takes your reposition-hint into account. Now it resambles the original drawing with two rivets/screws/pins. Quote: ...Any sign of a wear pattern around the circumference of the large hole which would indicate a diameter of something like that. As almost always Howard was one mile ahead of us. Attach file: (43.99 KB)
Posted on: 2011/7/12 5:58
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The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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A splitted JS-superdisc seems to confer at least a touch of dignity to be closer to the famous method of form follows function.
Now it doesn't need an additional small distance sleeve to surround the rivet because this time we want a frictional connection. But our sleeve is too good to throw away. If the second rivet would be replaced by a screw we should surround that adjusting screw which bolts through the elongated hole ("the wider one"). Three years later you could even use the elongated hole to balance the abrasion - a Packardlike contribution to sustainability standards. Attach file: (34.18 KB)
Posted on: 2011/7/12 6:06
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The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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That would also make a beautiful 30s poster, G. Don't toss the art work. If it said PACKARD in a size to fill the width like the 1922 Packard Ad on the Single-Six I see at the right of my screen and the word ENGINEERING stretched out underneath it end to end in small type, it would be one of those world class Olympic games posters from the 30s. Thank you for doing this.
I put everything back together last night and still having problems, so I think the only solution (if you followed the Duchess Project you might have seen that I had some things machined 2 or 3 times before they were usable) is to find out what's actually the part needed. That may mean buying and returning regulators from Kanter to find out. It would be worth the restocking and/or shipping cost.
Posted on: 2011/7/13 8:40
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Re: 1940 front door window mechanism
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Joe, I would like to persuade you into making a last attempt. The half-moon-shaped parts (drawing 004) should do it. Use a sliding hard plastic and take attention to the opposed direction of the plastic parts (one from above the other one from the bottom up).
Edit: Again trivial but have you tried both directions of the "slipper" arm (pic attached)? Attach file: (29.90 KB) (8.25 KB) (23.51 KB) (8.41 KB)
Posted on: 2011/7/13 9:02
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The story of ZIS-110, ZIS-115, ZIL-111 & Chaika GAZ-13 on www.guscha.de
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