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OK, maybe a dumb question but I know that today's engine stands are designed for the shorter V engines and that the longer straight 8 engine puts a lot of strain on the end of even a 1000# stand. BUT, how about putting a engine stand on both ends of a straight 8 even if you had to shorten the leading leg of one of the stands?
I've got a 1000# stand and just saw the HF ad for their 750# stand on special for $29.99. I wouldn't mind modifying that one at that price if something like that would work. It seems reasonable to me but then I haven't had a straight 8 on a stand in over 30 years. Hopefully somebody on here has probably already tried this and knows the answer.
Thanks in advance,
Gene

Why not buy a 1500 lb stand. Mine is even for my v8.

Gee Hank, you don't have to tell me 6 times! I read the first one just fine. I've already got a 1000# one and don't want to expend another $100+ to get a 1500 # stand if a $30 stand will work. I'm a poor man gotta work for his money.
Gene

Haven't tried it but wouldn't think that would be a bad idea. Just need to make the front plate attachments so it would match the rear rotation point and then make a plate to bolt the two stand bases together when in use. The rotation point might be an issue if the stands are different heights. If you were going to use it regularly then maybe another solution because it will be a bit long and possibly hard to maneuver.

A welder friend built an attachment for my 1000 lb HF stand along the lines of the Packard stand to mount from the side. Didn't cost much as it was scrap from the metal yard and he worked cheap. Some 1/2 plate about 4" wide and long enough to span the engine length plus the couple of inches at each end for the cross bolts. Some all thread and short pipes with a hook on the end for the clamps. Another short pipe in the middle which fit my HF stand & drilled for the lock and turning bar. Also had a couple of pieces going lower to support the pan area as they show in the picture and a gusset on either side of the center pipe a foot or so to keep the 1/2 plate from flexing. He added a couple of reinforcements on my vertical riser part of engine stand as well. Worked very well for several engines. I'd post a picture but I gave it to another friend for his engine and it left the state.

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As HH56 indicates the rotation axis of BOTH stands must be concentric with each other. That could present some problems.

An easier method mite be to just reenforce your existing 1000 # stand. A brace welded to the BACK side of the verticle support bar should increase the stands weight limit by a large amount. It will make the engine stand a bit awkward but using two stands would be awkward too.

A problem i often run into with engines over 400 #'s is that when they are rotated on the stand the entire stand/engine assembly reaches a point where engine tries rotate real fast under it's weight. This causes the entire set up to suddenly move across the floor about 3 or 4 feet real fast. It is not always possible centralize the weight of the engine around the axis of the engine stands mounting head. It changes anyway as cranks and cylinder heads are R&R'd.

For engines over 400# a geared head engine stand is needed.

I used this engine stand with no issues doing my 327, bolted directly to the back of the block. Does want to rotate on it's own in some positions, and can be tough to swing back around, but worked great for me nonetheless.


harborfreight.com/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-67015.html

When working on 51-54 engines I hold them from the driver's side using the rear two bolt holes from the engine mount, the unused tapped hole that is just below the dipstick tube, and the hole directly below that that would hold the clutch return spring on stick shift cars. Keeps the engine nice and close to the post. I have drilled the plate on my stand to match those holes so that I so not have to use any of the swing arms.

Hey, we've talked! I was just pulling your string. I figured something was wrong but wanted to kid you a little. Gene