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Aren't the two points just in series so you get a longer dwell or am I confused and thinking of something else? If it didn't come with wires, Napa has the longer one needed for dual point dist's. It's the top picture.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=83321#forumpost83321 How about other hardware to isolate one set or do those take special matched sets?

honestly, i have no idea how this thing works or goes in. LOL....i just thought i would wing it and get help from you guys on here.

i do know from what google says....dual points makes better power at higher rpm and since i have modified my motor to go higher....closer to 6k from normal 4500 i thought this would be nice.

Hank

Man, I have not thought about these dual point set-ups in years. As I recall the Chrysler hemi V-8s used a dual point distributor. Dual point breaker plates were available as an after market item to enhance ignition performance, like what Henry bought. I think Howard is right they were sold with a matched set of points, but I don't know if there was a difference between the primary and secondary point sets. The advantage is to increase dwell so there is more time to charge the coil and get a better spark. One set initiates the coil charge and the other set breaks and makes the spark. The first set of points would last forever (almost) while the second set that makes the spark would burn and oxidize like a conventional single point distributor. However, when servicing these distributors, both sets of points were replaced. These dual point distributors are not like the dual coil, dual point, dual electrode rotor distributors of the prewar Packards. Thanks for the memory.

some more progress has been made on the valve springs.

i need 100-110 lbs at 1.75" seated and 200-220lbs at 1.35" open to go with my new cam.

and the inside diameter of the factory spring is 1.1875

i cannot find an aftermarket spring with that inside diameter and those listed specs.

but i did find something very close that may work.

lunati 73949 http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=458&gid=189

its a dual spring setup with 120lbs at 1.650 seated and 265lbs at 1.250 open.

the inside diameter of the spring is .750 so i will have to cut the spring seat on the heads to match. i can buy a spring seat cutter with guage in 3/8" size and use my drill. the only one i can find is a .630" inside cut. they are about 65 bucks all together so i may just take my heads into the machine shop again. booo

but when they are installed a the height for Packard the lbs rates should drop some, creating what i need to go with this cam.

i have informed Jack about these springs and he is looking into them as well.

they have good keepers and locks that you can buy with them also.

lunati 75702 and 77004

the set is not cheap...coming in at just under 200 bucks, but they are a great alternative from the specs.

Hank

Quote:

Dual points were quite the deal back in the days before electronics, but dual PLUGS were the real ticket. Available on Chrysler products--police specials I believe usually got them. Love to find a set of heads set up for that. Just get the heads and put the rest together around them.


Henry, your Inner Hotrodder is obviously coming out with a vengeance.

i polished the lifter/cam spash shield piece....yes i'm weird. i just liked it.

i also put together parts i had laying around just to get them off the workbench so i had room to do other things while waiting some stuff.

i can't believe how HUGE the motor is.

Hank

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and yes i realize the valley cover is on backwards...oops.

not sure how this dual points plate is going to fit in with all this stuff i see on my current distributor.

my dad told me tonight that the condenser will go on the outside of the distributor, or at least that is how he has seen it when using dual points.

Hank

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did some work over the weekend as my parts came from Jack on Friday. thanks Jack! they were great! even got the .010 oversized rod bearings, the mains should be here this coming week. so the crank can go in finally.

i got the other pistons installed and my wife even knocked in a couple of them just so she could say she did something, its been awhile.

i took apart the distributor for a good cleaning and lubing, had to press out the shaft. man i'm glad i got that press now! worked flawlessly.

i have the power steering pump and the oil filter canister soaking in my special purple power cleaner. (p.s. its cheap and you can leave parts in it forever without rusting (no aluminum please))

i cleaned up some of the carb parts too and have some cleaning to do on the linkage. i sourced a place for the little bronze screws finally so now i can take those out, man they sure destroy themselves when you try to get them out and it doesn't help they are stacked on the other side to keep them from coming loose. so i had to drill one of them out when i clean.....i seriously clean. nook cranny everywhere.

the jets look like a size 52 and i read what i think is 6 on the others, but surely they are bigger then 6...maybe 60? and i can't read the 0. sorry for the blurry pic.

the site i found that has the screws also has jets, but i wont be jetting with this cam on recommendation by a 4GC pro that Jack told me to contact.

the oil filter is obviously the common Fram C-4 replacement.

that little filter screen/clip i have pictured is going to be kinda hard to replace, but i haven't researched that yet. the screen was sunk into the hole and only held on by one side of the clip instead of the whole thing and you can see why...looks like it is just worn out.

and my Aunt found an old Packard hat of my Grandfather's at my late Uncle's house. i wear it when i work on the car.

anyways enjoy.

Hank

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put the crank in tonight, but i don't have that special tool to install the rear main seal and i used what i could come up with. i hammered on it and pushed down as best i could and cut the rope.

put it all together and i can tell you there is no way in hell that crank is turning by hand. i even tried a wrench on the front end with the nut on....nope not gonna move.

did i do something wrong with the rope, will that tool really really be needed?

i did have to use the bolts to get the rear main to set down right. the others were easy.

then again the rear main bearing may just be too tight between the weights and not allowing the crank to turn freely. i have no idea. i stopped for the night as to not really screw something up.

any ideas oh gurus?

Hank

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