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you think that pin i still good to use even with the wear on it. i'm not sure how it got the wear on it to begin with since the inner rotor is locked into position right over those wear marks.

also have you even sourced the bronze bushings to replace them? or for that matter the bigger outer rotors bearing?

thanks

Hank

Hard to say what caused the damage--maybe it was dry or had dirt in the oil. The fluid is pretty viscous so as long as there is no seal surface over the wear or any kind of sloppiness with the rotor, I would try it and see.

Never tried sourcing anything & other than rebuild kit, never needed anything. I know rotor kits are (were) available last one I rebuilt so maybe still are. I believe but will not swear to it that they are Eaton pumps and if so, versions were also used on Ford and Studebaker products thru the 60's. Some of their vendors might be an option if ours do not have anything.

yeah i do see the rotor kits are available (not sure of NOS status or not). i will check the rotor specs vs what the manual says they should be for sure.

the bushing look to be good, but the outer rotors bearing looks to have some wear on it and some blackening in spot like it got hot.

i think the reason there is no part number for the bearings is because Packard expected it to be replaced as a unit if they were bad, so there are no individual part numbers for them.

i'll probably see if the vendor has a non-worn rotor shaft, but if not i'll reuse the old one as there is no sealing going on there.

and yes it says Eaton on the side of the main body of the pump.

thanks Howard,

Hank

well i got alot of work done this weekend, finally!

i got the pistons all in, got the chain mounted (see the slack, is that acceptable?), and i mounted the oil pump (don't burn on me for using the stock pump please, i do plan on getting the adapter from Jack soon), and i tried to rebuild my water pump, but hit a snag...oops!

i cleaned up the vaccum hard line with carb cleaner (worked great on the inside) and then polished it up nice and clean. looks like a brand new line if i do say so myself.

i got new bolts for the oil pump too as they were cheap and i saw some strees cracks on one of the old lock washers. i put alittle grease on the seal and mounted it up.

nobody had any copper 5/16 washers for the water pump bolts though, anyone found those locally....fyi i haven't tried the auto stores yet.

before i decided to crush the shaft seal for the water pump i used loctite 518 on it. i had to use that stuff on my boat jet pumps when i rebuilt them and this product is great for sealing against water. i don't know if it was a good idea to use it or not, but i liked the idea anyways, wasn't going to hurt.

i gave the seal that one last push, just had to do it, and bam it mushroomed out on me. i was pretty happy about it, but live and learn. the picture of it mushroomed out is after i tried to salvage it.....no chance there.

i cleaned up the chain cover best i could and pushed in the new front crank seal. i used the neoprene one on the front. i used the rope on the rear as i didn't like the way the neoprene replacement had to be rigged in to work.

i got some more parts i need to sand blast and others that need to go to the blasters as they have a bigger cabinet then me and the parts will fit.

thanks for reading and looking.

enjoy the pics.

Hank

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Henry, thanks for the great photos. Good progress, this must feel good. Could you do all us V-8'ers a favor and show how close the dip stick end gets to the oil pump pick-up float? Thanks.

(o[]o)

Love the work Hank! Keep on stoking the fires for all of us who have yet to begin our projects in earnest. Great photos! That vacuum line looks brand new!

" show how close the dip stick end gets to the oil pump pick-up float"

I don't think that is possible unless a piston is left out. The only way i discovered it was using a mock-up block/pump.

Otherwise, look for an etched mark from end of dip stick on the top of the float.

A common problem is that the front seal holder will creep out of its hole in the front cover over time and then the whole seal assy begins to spin with the crank making a big oil leak. In 56 they knurled the holder to prevent this with so-so success. I like to loctite them in and even drill for two small screws radially at about the 12 and 6 position.

Quote:

Keith, I was picturing Henry inserting the dip stick in its holding tube, and with the pan off and the oil pump installed, one could see the end of the dip stick and its proximity to the top of the pick up float. Is this incorrect?

(o[]o)

actually my thought was to put a camera in the oil pan and hold it up to the engine with the stick in place. set the camera on a the timer and just keep trying till i get a good shot of the insides. i think it is possible.

Ross,

i have a friend with a knurling tool, i'll probably knurl it up. thanks for the insightful information!

and i was really glad i could reuse that vacuum hard line....i didn't have the right size line at my house to make a new one. it cleaned up pretty nice i think!


Hank