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Where are you hiding the converter?

I have a Type II 6v battery which leave space in the battery box for the converter. I will leave the switch ON so the cigarette lighter will always be able to provide power, but I won't use the power until I plug the power cord/charger for cell phone/iPad, etc into it. The charger I have now also has a USB plug in it, dual purpose.

I'm attaching the converter box, resting on the bottom of the battery box, to the side of the battery with two strips of velcro.

I taped up the "constant on" cord and only used the switched line because I want the option to switch it off if I have a reason. If I have to do it more frequently than disconnecting the battery, I'll run the switch to someplace easier to get to.

I'll run one wire under the car to the wiring harness and following it through the bottom of the cowl and up through the top into the dash area.

I'm not sure which terminal on the lighter I need to attach that cord. I think it has to be the hot terminal, because the cigarette lighter can ground itself to the dash (though I will provide a solid ground to one of those lighter terminals).

6v-to-12v ACCESSORY CONVERTER: There's a perfect place for the converter box in the frame rail at the battery. The side rests on the interior floor of the frame. The mounting tabs fit against the interior wall of the frame.

Drilled a hole in the floor next to the battery box cover for the switch. The wiring harness, that the yellow wire from the converter will follow to the front and into the dashboard area, runs along the frame.

EDIT: The yellow wire is to be connected to the center terminal of the cigarette lighter and the outer housing to the ground, per normal installation. I will then be able to plug in a cigarette lighter adapter to charge the iPad and iPhone. The adapter has an optional USB connector. When not in use, I will plug in my Packard cigarette lighter for looks. The converter box draws about 3mA when not being used.

I received great support from Charles Meyer, who designed and makes the converter www.6to12volt.com

HEAT RISER: I loosened the two nuts from under the car (I could only loosen the closest one from up top) and turned the cup and spring a full 360 degrees counter-clockwise to tighten it. Genuine tension on the counterweight now.

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Cardinal Santana, if it's not too late to add this, as i just noticed your heat riser spring discussion this afternoon, i fiddled with the adjustment on my NOS manifold heat control valve thermostatic spring on my '47 Super, but it works as the gentlemen above describe. If all else fails, a longtime Packardite told me you can take your original to a decent, long-established parts house and find a choke thermostatic spring that's close. You're making me feel guilty because i bought the last one Max Merritt had in the '90s, tho' he's likely unearthed more since.

You didn't ask, but assuming your thin tin manifold heat control thermostatic spring cover is rusty toast after all those years in the tundra, i conned John Kepich into reproducing it in stainless steel, so contact him.

Finally, as i exhausted my play value with that project and didn't want to revisit it for a few centuries, i lubed the shaft with a mixture of kerosene and powdered graphite, but i bow as always to any superior intel from the worthies on this forum.

Prosit.

Bless you, my son, but that IS a brand new cover as the original bit the dust a long time ago, completely gone, and, while I haven't started the car yet, I was able to turn the cover with spring hooked on it a full circle counterclockwise from where it was.

The counterweight is now bumping at the top. I think that's position when it's cold.

I hope this is right now. For 1940 - 50 356. But I wouldn't be surprised otherwise. It doesn't seem to match the sketch, so I may still have it wrong.

Cheers, Joe

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Joe,

Neat idea on where to mount the converter and use the cigar lighter. You may want to check your lighter socket as the accessory plug may not work in the old style socket. I discovered this on my 55 Clipper when I went to plug in my cell phone charger (I converted to negative ground). I bought a new lighter assembly at Auto Zone, but have not yet installed it.

Worrying about details like this must mean you are very near finishing your restoration. It took a long time to get here, but worth all the efforts. Thanks for sharing your trials and accomplishments with us.

(o[]o)

Thanks, JayDub,

Still have issues with the windows and doors. But getting to the end.

CONVERTER is installed and works. Box fits in frame rail. New cigarette lighter installed. Removed the knob from the old one and screwed it into the new one. By accident I bought two different types... the holder is one type. The lighter is another. So while the lighter looks good, it doesn't work, so no one will push it in by accident.

I plugged in the iPhone car adapter, it lit, so I plugged in my old iPhone. (Not ready to burn up the new one and have Siri yelling at me.) It charged fine, so plugged in the bluetooth car speaker into the USB adapter. It charged just fine too.

So now, as soon as I've saved a few bucks, I'm ready to get the latest iPad and hit the road to Seattle in April.

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Joe,

Thanks for the hint on using the old element and knob for original looks with the new lighter socket. Who cares if it doesn't light, no more smoking in my Clipper any way.

(o{}o)

Ooops. I had to remove the old knob from the old cigar lighter heating element. (Hold the inner element on the end ...I used 3 needle files wedged in there to hold it as seen in photo because I couldn't grip it with pliers...and unscrew it.) Then screw it in to a New heating element. The old heating element is too big a diameter to fit in the new holder.

But the new element I bought is a pop-out and doesn't work with the new holder I bought earlier. But as mentioned, this is a good idea. I heard about some kids who were getting into cars, heating up the cigar lighter, and branding the upholstery. In over 50 years of owning the Duchess, half of that daily driving, I had the following:
1967 - Obscenity keyed into my trunk lid after a (thankfully) cheap paint job.
1972 - Rear window cut out and stolen in broad daylight, 10 am, on street next to office.
1978 - Whacked Goddess of Speed 90 degrees at the convention center by attendees of an afternoon rock concert that let out while I was setting up a multimedia show.
1983 - Original locking Script gas tank cap twisted off in waterfront parking lot downtown Portland. (You know if I ever see it on a Portland car I'll be asking questions. The script replacement I bought for $125 is short on quality.)
BUT for having the car out all the time in those days, it's not that bad. The same kinds of things happen to any car ... just ask any Mercedes Benz or Jag owner.

Far and away, people are very respectful of the car. I find it well worth it to take the risk. The Duchess makes me smile.

As well it should!