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Rebuilding my Packard 6 engine and have the transmission out as well, going to put back into car as an assembly

Cleaning the 80 years of grease and crud off, pulled the front transmission mounts off. One is in 1 piece, may just be stuck together, the other in two pieces.
Question, is the mount two metal pieces vulcanized together or is it two separate pieces with the rubber vulcanized just to the transmission side?

Onto the rear transmission mount, appears to be a large spring with vulcanized rubber inside of it. When I pulled the tranny out of the car, it was attached to the rear crossmember and the transmission. As I was cleaning it (80 years of crud), this assembly came off. Does the tranny just rest on this spring assembly and stabilized by the stabilizer?

All those pieces were vulcanized together. I know that the trans mounts are available new. The coil spring thingy under the overdrive you will probably have to have revulcanized by Steele.

Thanks!

Have not been able to find new, where did you see them? Steele will re-vulcanize fronts for several hundred plus a lead time

As for the rear, just cleaned it up and it is broken as well. Re-vulcanize the only option?

I posted on this a short while back. Cold bonding works!; believe me!! Chris

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The front/side mounts are made of 2 pieces of metal vulcanized to a rubber cushion. The rear mount is a base plate with 2 holes, a top plate with a stud and rubber vulcanized inside the spring. Nothing just sits on anything else.

New front/side mounts are available, the single rear mount is done on an exchange only basis.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

The front/side mounts are made of 2 pieces of metal vulcanized to a rubber cushion. The rear mount is a base plate with 2 holes, a top plate with a stud and rubber vulcanized inside the spring. Nothing just sits on anything else.

New front/side mounts are available, the single rear mount is done on an exchange only basis.

Thanks
James From
Kanter Auto Products

I think Chris might have good idea worth trying. Many years ago before Steele started offering very many Packard items (mid 80s) I had a similar situation with the rubber being separated on the bottom piece of the 47. When making something else for another car (body mount pads) I found there would be some material left over when that project was completed so decided to see what would happen in casting new "rubber" for the mount. I removed the old deteriorated rubber and cleaned the parts very well. The parts must be grease free or the casting material will not bond.

Made a jig to hold the pieces in the proper orientation and wrapped the spring with tape to form a mold to confine the material and then cast new "rubber" in the mount using a urethane casting product. At the time product availability was somewhat limited so I used a Devcon product called Flexane 80 as that was sold by a local industrial place. The Devcon product is still available and today there are other mfgs making comparable products. Smooth-On is one of the better known that is easily found at various online places as well as thru local distributor stores. I believe Reynolds America is their own distribution channel and those stores are in many larger cities. They have trial size amounts for less than $50 in their PMC line that range from a 70 to 90 durometer. One of those might be suitable since they are used for industrial anti vibration motor mounts and conveyor belt repair as well as for making the extremely durable concrete stamping molds.

There are others on this forum who might be able to better say which durometer range is best for the mount but the shore 80a I used with the Flexane product is comparable to a shoe heel according to Smooth-Ons charts. 60a and 70a is a tire tread range and 90a is a shopping wheel cart. Point of this long dissertation is after the repair and many years of sitting, when I went to put the 47 back together 5 or 6 years ago the mount appeared to still be in excellent condition and very well bonded. I ordered Kanters repro side mounts and used the repaired rear mount.

That might be an option on yours as the materials would be a relatively small outlay compared to sending it away for vulcanization and could be done in a few hours with a 2 day curing time before the advertised hardness is obtained. In the future if you found it did not work then you are only out a relatively small amount of $ and time lost and you could still send the piece in.

Great suggestions all, thank you. Researching products now

-john

Howard, you have taken this in a slightly different direction, if I read your reply correctly, and are purporting actually pouring a liquid product into a mold, which can also work. I think I remember that Flexthane 80 as a moldable polyurethane and my only reservation with that is the higher durometer. I think it would be worth trying to find either some thick conveyor belt or some 1" oil resistant sheet rubber (nitrile or neoprene) and simply cutting and bonding that to the metal part of the mount. most of that stuff is in the 65/70 duro and will give more vibdampening and allow for more movement before tearing. I remember we used to do those flexible marine drive couplings and cold bonded those, and even with all the moisture and the corrosive seawater environment, they would hold up. Chris.

Chris, I agree 80 may be a bit much and is why I suggested others might have a better idea. 80 was what was available locally back then before the days of the internet and online vendors. 60 and 70 are readily available today and might be better. No idea what the original might have been. Mine was deteriorated, separated, and what was not crumbling due to being soaked in grease was rock hard.

As to the procedure on the bottom mount, if were are speaking the same general item I think it will almost have to be poured in. Not sure how any kind of strip could be made to fill the space and be sure of a good bond to both parts. The spring is fastened to one piece and a rod like device is fastened to the other and sticks down in the middle of the spring. Rubber surrounds the inner piece and is contained by the spring as the outer housing. I wrapped tape around the spring leaving a bit of a slot to pour the liquid flexane in between the windings while the assy was laid on its side.