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DASH: Completely apart now, repairing items I was too lazy to fix when all components were in place requiring me to stand on my head.

WIPER MOUNT/GLOVE BOX: I repaired the leak from the wiper mount by adding adhesive sealant to the both sides of the mounting rubber. That leak had ruined my glove box. My Sis bought me a new one for Christmas from Ron Carpenter..

TRIP ODOMETER: The cable came loose from the mounting sheath. Posting this photo for 39SixSedanMan.

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DASHBOARD:
IGNITION SWITCH: This project was catalyzed by a faulty, worn out ignition switch, after 445K miles. I had replaced the cable-shielded interior wire by cutting the shield 10 inches from the switch, attaching a new wire and having a piece of brass tubing attached to the shield replacing the piece cut out. The brass tube doesn't show because it's under the dash. The switch itself is most likely messed up at the bottom of the switch case. The flackmaster is sending a replacement.

WIRING: When I wired in a new harness, I was excited about being able to run the car. I probably could have done a better job. But the real problem, what made the current condition looking like this photo of power lines in a neglected area of India was the addition over the years of wiring for fog lights, under-the-seat heater, parade fan, electric fuel pump, plus a couple of repairs to existing power converter, heater/defroster, etc. So I set out to straighten it all out by removing everything, labeling wires, organizing, and fixing anything not quite right.

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Wow. I am impressed by your work. Ernie in Arizona

You make consider using a 30amp 6V relay. That can take the load of all the accessories, and then the Ignition Switch is just triggering it. Thereby reducing the stress on the switch.

Easy to wire and hide that up under the dash.

Adding a relay is really not a bad idea and you could go a step farther and have the relay power a fuse block to better fuse the accessories. IMO, better fuse protection and taking excess load out of any of the old switches is always a good idea.

Kev and Howard, Boy if there was ever a time to add a relay, something I’ve never done, don’t know what one looks like, it is now. I will do some searching. Maybe I need a relay to be sure everything is well grounded, too?

SPEEDOMETER TRIP RESET CABLE: You have to know what you’re doing to take that reset cable out of the speedo housing. The speedometer is, therefore, on its way to Pat Mescher at Bills Speedometer in Ohio.

FAUX WOOD TRIM/DASH REFINISHING: I used 400, 1500 and 2000 sandpaper and then sprayed with clear urethane. 3 pieces done.

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6v cube or Bosch style relays are not as easily found as the 12v versions but Amazon apparently stocks them now and at a decent price. There are also individual sockets available for the relays or in some cases the relay could be put in a modern style fuse box -- if you wanted to use modern ATC or ATO automotive style blade fuses.

If your accessory already has an inline fuse then there would be no need for another fuse and you would just need a terminal block powered by the relay. A terminal block would eliminate all the accessory wires trying to go back on a single terminal at the headlight or the ign switch.

If you did need a fuse block but want to stay with the the old style glass fuses then YnZ has a glass fuse holder capable of holding 6 fuses with inputs that could all be connected by a single buss bar connection to the relay but at over $50 it is pricy. The glass fuse holder selection that Amazon carries is limited but they do have a couple that would work. Those holders do not have a buss bar so would need a bit more work with connections to power them all simultaneously from the relay.

The glass fuse holders of today are for the consistent length AGC style fuses so some of the lower amperage SFE fuses that Packard used which came in different lengths sized for specific amps would need to change to a consistent length type fuse if you did not already have or wanted to change an inline holder.

If you want to do something with a relay or fuse holder/terminal block several of us could come up with a wire diagram and maybe a parts recommendation for you.

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I've done a ton of relay conversions on our (fleet of) Crown Victoria headlights, which rivaled Lucas, Lord of Darkness, from day one. Took a couple hours per vehicle; lights were easily 2x as bright when completed. Side benefit is the headlight switch did not catch fire from the wildly undersized wiring.

I might use them on the rehab of my '40 110 sedan which will get a survivor treatment. More fun to retain a patina'd operational base model than to turn it into parts for sale and the remains into scrap.

Relays rock.

Ok I’d appreciate a diagram using a relay. I actually found one installed by an auto-electric place in Portland for my 6v parade fan. They gave me an extra one. It’s just hanging by its fan control wires and wrapped in electrical tape. I’ll take a pic in the morning. I don’t understand the principle of the relay.

How would a relay be used with my fog lights or heater? Is it a built-in fuse? It seems like it increases wiring.

I did buy a bunch of disconnects. These will extend the wires so they are easier to work on and allow me to disconnect and remove a component without having to remove the wires on it, if that makes sense. Each one takes 2 wires with strong opposing male-
female connectors I can pull apart.

A relay is just an electronic switch. So in its simplest terms there are two terminals that carry the high amp load. So 6v coming in from the battery and another going out to the load (lights, fan, heater, etc)

Then there are two other terminals that control the switch. So one of those is usually connected to ground and the other to a 6v switched power source.

So when the the switched source is turned on it it activates the relay (turns it on).

The entire purpose is that the switch terminals only require very low average to active the relay which then switches on the high amperage load. So in your situation, the ignition switch wpuld be supplying the low amperage signal, vs high amerage load.

Think of it as master - slave switch.

Relays usually have more than 4 terminals, (usually 5). So you wire them in either normally off, or normally on configuration