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If the motor doesn't kick with priming then the next system to verify is ignition. You can buy a spark tester at NAPA or if you have a high pain threshold just use a screw driver or even your finger (provided you don't have a heart condition).

If you don't have ignition then you'll have to wrk through the system starting with the points. Beware that the armored cable to the coil is a common culprit so be prepared to bypass the ignition switch using a jumper wire.

If the motor doesn't kick with priming then the next system to verify is ignition. You can buy a spark tester at NAPA or if you have a high pain threshold just use a screw driver or even your finger (provided you don't have a heart condition).

If you don't have ignition then you'll have to wrk through the system starting with the points. Beware that the armored cable to the coil is a common culprit so be prepared to bypass the ignition switch using a jumper wire.

Here is a pic of the fuel filter that is just before you get to the carb. I put the blue towel behind so you could see it better. So you think it's for sure in the ignition system?

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That is some pretty awful looking gas in the filter. Good gas should be more clear. Maybe it is a fuel quality problem?

(o{}o)

I guess the fuel is possible problem but it's run so good in the recent past. I thought the fuel filter plastic kind of made the fuel look like that. Should we change that fuel filter to start with or go straight to the ignition stuff?

As Tim stated, because it would not fire with gas directly down the carb throat, you would be best served by verifying that the ignition system is functioning correctly.

Cheers,

Tom

We were able to check for spark this morning. We checked every plug wire except the one right in the middle of the engine, had to answer the phone and leave quickly. Anyway, they all had spark. Should the spark be bright white? They all had spark but it was kind of orange and sparked about every 1-2 seconds while cranking. It wasn't terribly strong but maybe I'm used to 12 volt newer model cars.

The plug wires say Packard U.S.A. on them

here is a pic of top of engine. Anyone want to please tell us where to go from here? Thanks

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Dear Packard0:

Good that you are making way. A KD spark tester from NAPA would allow you to measure the voltage which should be at least 20,000 volts in a good 6 volt system. And yes it should be bright white.

If you are checking one cylinder it should spark every two revolutions and be regular. If it skips that indicates a problem. I've had cases where it would spark now and then because the distribtor plate was shorting.

I can see from the picture that someone has worked with the armored cable. You can disconnect that wire and run a jumper wire straight to the battery. Sometimes those ignition switches and cables short out.

Also, sometimes excessive paint will obsrtuct the ground for the disributor. That can be fixed with a ground wire.

After that, it's straight tune up procedures.

Maybe you should do a compression test while you are under there.

Tim,

We are novices at best so bear with us, I'm the computer poster of comments and pics--(at least I can do that--HA!). When you say "armored cable" are you referring to the one in the green like metal tubing? I haven't looked at where it actually goes from the top of the engine on back. Do we run a jumper wire under the car to the battery or through the hole where all the wires are currently snaking through and hook to the negative terminal? Also, that armored cable wire--where is it going once it disappears through the firewall? What type or gauge size wire do we need? Like I said all the plug wires were showing spark and I think like you said they were doing it every two revolutions but some weren't quite as strong as other. Lastly, I can't imagine it's anything major as the car has very recently run and it runs perfect.