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what i want to know is how did you take those pictures. Most impressive

I used my DEPSTECH Wireless borescope. They have a light and camera that uses Bluetooth to pair with your smart phone. You can get them on Amazon

Link below

amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspectio ... 1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=depstech+wireless+endoscope&qid=1597465547&sprefix=DEPSTECH+Wireless&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMUVLN1NSVzRWRFpYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTgyMTc3TDNIUzNYNDQ5ODBYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MDc3ODYzNDlHWVYyQjBHTkFRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Looks like hanging the Radiator upsidedown and flushing with water would be a good idea. It may not be the source of your coolant loss, but getting that junk out can't hurt. A Gano Filter would also be a good idea for your car.
Put a siev under the radiator to catch the rust that comes out. Heck, I may do that on my clipper.

On second thought....you wrote,"Plugged passages preventing the radiator fluid from going down the radiator bubbling up and going out the overflow tube."
That sounds reasonable....Try cleaning the radiator and see if that helps. That is easier that working on the water pump or head gasket.

Good afternoon...It looks to me that you need to take the radiator out of the car and clean it out completely. Flush it top to bottom and then bottom to top. Get it really clean.

To really clean the inside of the engine, remove the water pump, take out the water distribution tube, remove a couple of freeze plugs and then use a power washer nozzle in the hole where the freeze plug was. If you don't get the engine really cleaned out, you'll just plug up the radiator again.

I know because I had to do all these things plus a head gasket to get our 1949 288 to run cool...I could not believe all the stuff that came out of that engine...It turned the damn driveway almost bright orange and it stayed that way until we had one hell of a rain storm...Wife was not pleased! Ernie in Arizona

JRPackard37, not to hijack your link, but I also bought one of those cameras and it applied to work good when I first got it but took it out the other day (year or two later) and found the image was hard to use. Looked like the focus went out. No adjustments that I can see. Oh well it worked for what I original needed
Just a heads up!
Wes

Also just noticed this, what I think is oil at head gasket area, I just repainted the engine to touch up the paint job from 26 years ago that was about a month ago. Driven about 130 miles since repaint. Any thoughts?

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I see that you have chrome acorn head nuts without the very thick washers that should be under them. Is it possible that the threads have bottomed out, giving a false torque reading? In fact, I don't see any washers at all which will always give a false reading!

The chrome nuts are just chrome caps for the real original nuts that are below them. Thanks James

Good afternoon...I think that Don is asking if there are the correct washers between the nut and the head. Without the washers, the head is most likely a wee bit loose...Ernie in Arizona

Understood, the standard nut and washer is below the chrome cap cover, I have previously checked the toqure on the head studs and they where tighten to 65 ft lbs.

Thanks

James