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Hey! That looks like a WGD...i have 2 giving me fits right now! Pains in the butt...

About the accelerator pump check needle: If memory serves me correctly, I believe there should also be a wire clip to keep the needle in place. No oiling necessary unless your accelerator pump seal is made of leather (probably not). In that case soak the pump in some motor oil to saturate the leather.

(o{I}o)

Thanks JW for the info on the accelerator pump. The things online were giving me conflicting information. A couple of websites also mentioned rubbing the parts with an oily rag to lubricate them. With the binding I was experiencing I was wondering if I should have lubricated the linkage.

Got the carb all back together now. Everything is moving smoothly again. I took off the shaft under the dust cover on top of the carb and polished it off more. That fixed the binding problem there. I also removed the climate control face and cleaned inside of that area again. Now the choke is not sticking when returning to the closed position so it should be OK. Won't be able to test it for a while though. Lots of things need to go back in the car. I may just leave it off and start working on the passenger side of the engine while I have it off.

The hardest part for me was reassembling the top section with the middle section. The metering rods would not line up properly. The way I did it was to have the accelerator piston and vacuum piston lined up, and the low speed jets were going in their proper holes. This would get the top section all the way down except for about a 1/2" gap. Then I slipped the metering rods off the top "T" piece they are attached to. Wiggled the rods so they would slide down properly and the top section would go down the rest of the way. Then I used a screwdriver to turn the ends back on the "T" piece. Once they are back on the "T", they moved freely. The pic below shows the assembly that was giving me problems.

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Yes, it is a WGD Model 784S. What problems are you having with yours?

Was running great (professionally done total clean and rebuild) and then starting stalling at idle during a drive, then i needed to pump the gas to get it going fast enough for part throttle to get us home.

One of the jets/nozzles inside the booster rings (i think that's what they are?) Was literally glugging (best term) gas out of itself at maybe 1000-1500 rpm. Won't idle well, it will stall. I took it apart and found one of the jets that the needle went into had a small piece of debris behind it (think i got it out). Removed that, and reinstalled, same issue.

Found an old NOS or old rebuild on ebay for cheap, took a chance and put it on. BOTH nozzles glug fuel out. Fuel pressure right before it goes into carb is 4 PSI.

I'm wondering if the new fuel pump is overpowering the seat valve and pushing the gas out of the nozzles in "spurts" of glugging. In my limited experience, you shouldn't see gas in the carb working unless it's the accelerator pump or lightly appearing to "smear" or hit the throttle plates, looking like a little bit of clear movement.

I'm going to likely disconnect the fuel line from the tank to pump and run it until it runs out of gas in the carb, and see if it stops glugging and what pressure the line is at. I do have 2 pressure regs here, one that just made the pressure 0, even if i tried any other setting. (from 1 to 5.5 in .5 increments.) I have another brand pre-set at 3 psi and adjustable with a screw and set screw, if it seems to be a pressure problem, maybe that will solve it.

It does seem like a marvelous and simple carb though, and when freshly clean, they shine and look great on a freshly painted manifold. It always ran well before it was rebuilt, and before i replaced the old weak fuel pump. If it was a leak or something similar, i'm sure i could fix it. This one is just a bit trickier.

Not much going on. Got more snow and a dip in the temperature so I'm not feeling like being outside. Yesterday I ordered some 6v bulbs I was missing from Napa. I was surprised they could order them. Picked them up today. Finished the other sections of the harness that I had to cut off (passenger side courtesy light, door switch and lead to dome light). I installed a male and female bullet connector so I could take them apart easily if I ever want to remove the harness again. Also took out the drivers side door switch and cleaned it up. Tried to be careful because there are some cool old oil change stickers there. I tore one a little getting the switch out. The other is in poor shape and the only thing I can make out is 20W written on it. The good one shows the car got maintenance done in Nov. 1960 w/35,088 miles on it. The speedo shows 50K so I think it is original if you figure the car would have been driven the most when it was new. I hope that's right anyway. The wear on things like brake and gas pedal are not worn to the point you would expect if the car had 150K on it.

Below is a pic of the oil change stickers. They will probably be destroyed when I try to remove them so at least I will have the pictures to record the history of the car.

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Love the dinosaur Sinclair one!

I like those oil change stickers too. I sure hope I am able to save most of them at least. Mount them on some paper or something to go with the history of the car.

Just looked at my bulbs I got from Napa. The ones in the package say 12V! ARGH! They are the numbers called for in the owners manual though. The loose ones have the bulb number on them, but they don't say if they are 6V or not. I always thought one bulb number was a specific model, being only 6V. I guess I'll have to return these. Hopefully they can get the right ones.

The Oreilys near my house had 6v bulbs in stock. May want to try some of the local part houses.

Thanks BigKev,

I'll try them tomorrow. If not, I'll give Napa a second chance at ordering the right ones. I'm using the Mazda number provided in the owners manual. That should be correct? I specified 6v, but maybe his computer didn't tell him what voltage they were.

Many years ago, I was able to get bulbs in stock at a local independent parts store. I have since misplaced those bulbs and moved 50 miles away. Hopefully someone around here will come through for me.