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Howard, I wanted to give you update on where I am. I removed the column clip & confess I used WD-40 in the oil hole and then removed the C clip and used it below the washer in attempt to loosen/lube the upper 2-3 lever. I let it sit over night. Then replaced the clip.

In the meantime I have had NO success removing the cotter pin on the 2-3 lever to disconnect the linkage even after a few shots of WD-40. I have pinched, pulled, pushed, tapped and everything else I can think of to loosen that blasted pin but can't seem to remove it.

After letting the lube soak inside the column, since I couldn't budge the cotter pin I decided to see what was happening to the gear selector on steering column. Very gently, with clutch depressed I was able to put gear selector in neutral position & springs seemed to work again. I could not move into 1st gear but selector could move into 2nd and was then frightened to note selector very loosely moves from 2nd to 3rd, just flops from top to bottom with no resistance at all. It feels like something has disconnected?? This really scared me as I have not forced any movement at all at any point.

The next day I was able to move gear selector a bit into reverse feeling the lever move into a "notch" of some kind after a light movement toward reverse. It still would not move into first gear.

I thought I might trying to removing the cotter pin from the linkage(s) working from under the car but have not been comfortable nor have the room to move around without any hydraulic jack or stands as of yet.

It sounds as if the WD-40 might be doing something so maybe just let it sit and soak for a bit longer -- and dose the upper lever a couple of more times. With luck it will free up without needing major disassembly. When it is free, follow up on the WD-40 treatment with a good lube with motor oil.

Not sure about the cotter key but it might be wrapped in both directions around the rod end and will be easier to cut it off rather than try and unbend to remove. New cotter keys are available at almost any hardware store. All you need is one in the proper diameter and long enough so the key can go thru the hole and have enough sticking out of the hole to bend.

Without seeing or feeling the shift, it it is hard to say what to do about the sloppy motion. Worn rod ends and bushings that fit into lever holes have been an issue on high mileage cars so that could be some of the sloppiness. There is a detent block which holds the interlock and detent mechanisms inside the transmission that can also become loose.. Both detent and interlock functions have had issues if the parts get worn or damaged and that could be something that needs looking into.

The interlock part is a solid round bar that slides in one of the holes in the detent block. The bar has rounded ends that fit into notches in either lever. When one lever moves, a cam like affair forces the bar to move its other end into a notch in the other lever to prevent the not in use lever from moving. When you need the next gear, moving the original lever back to neutral unblocks the bar so it can move and the brief pass thru neutral lets the cam affair on the second lever force the bar in the opposite direction and then the process is repeated so the original lever used is now blocked. It all happens quite quickly and seamlessly but does require a bit of finesse from the driver. That is one reason Packards do not do well with the so called speed shifting where the mechanism is quickly slammed from one gear into another without an attempt at going thru neutral..

The detent portion fits in another hole in the block and just consists of a strong spring with a round ball at either end. When a lever moves the round balls slide into slight depressions in the levers and the detent is because you feel the action of the spring as it pushes the balls into position.

I will try another dose of WD-40 and see how it goes - in the meantime it looks like I cannot escape taking trans coverplate off and looking it what's up & will take your notes with me. In the meantime can you tell what proper trans oil level is from peering from the top or not since I can't get under the car?

I would give it another day or so with the WD-40. Give it a squirt followed in a little while by GENTLY trying to move the linkage as you have been doing so the WD can kind of work in. Follow the move attempt by another squirt of WD and another sit to see if will eventually break free. If or when it does see how it feels before taking off the case top. If, after you get the cotter key out so the levers can be moved under hand pressure, if levers have not broken completely free and are easy to move then worry about removing the steering column and fixing them first before taking the trans apart. If the column levers stick and are trying to move both trans levers at the same time you can't get a good indication if there is a problem in the trans. If you could get under you could disconnect the long rods at the trans and then move those levers by hand to tell if there is a problem inside.

I don't know if you can see the fill plug on the passenger side of the case looking down inside from the top because it is a fair distance down. If you can, and it is just the transmission the oil level will be just to the bottom or slightly above the bottom of the plug hole. If there is an Overdrive then it gets a bit confusing because the two share lube and filling one affects the other. The fill plugs are at a different level but as I recall, it will be the OD plug that is lower and will overflow. As long as the lube is at the bottom of trans fill plug the level on both will be OK.

Here is a photo posted by "let the ride decide" a couple of years ago showing the passenger side of the trans and the location of the fill plug.

Attach file:

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  trans.jpg (195.12 KB)

You might want to try using something other than WD40. It may penetrate but will not lubricate. Maybe PB Blaster as a penetrant and and a good penetrating lubricant after it is freed up. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

PB Blaster

Liquid Wrench

SeaFoam Deep Creep

WD-40 is originally formulated as a water-dispersant (that's what the WD stands for). You want something a stronger.

This has been the most effective for me.
https://www.kroil.com/

Thanks!

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much!