Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

You could run 2 6V batteries wired in series and center tap for the car electrics and 12 V for A/C and other things - it would only require a 12 V charging system

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That's a solid bet, but then you have two batteries poking around and i want it to be simple and simple looking. However, if you went this route, it was mentioned that you could use a later 12V generator for OEM looks. As turbo pointed out, if you spend the money on the batteries and charging system, might as well go 12V. Only reason i don't is that i have a little over $100 in my electronic ignition and like 120 in the factory elongated 6v battery and 100 in the 6v pos grnd alternator. I hate to change that over to 12v AND buy ac components (i'm starting from scratch, no ac stuff in hand but an old test R4 compressor)

I'm looking to put my money mainly into AC components. These guys :

http://myworld.ebay.com/classicautoair&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:SELLERID

have a great website and ebay store, and will adjust valves for you for 134. So i think i'll rely on them heavily to get a new system together of OEM parts adjusted for 134 and put it together, and play with the 12v clutching upgrades on the bench afterwards. If i find a good solution, i'll apply it to the system after it's in place.

I still figure that if i drive about 3-5K a year in the car with the AC on all the time, that's like driving 3 or 4 months in a normal car (normal being an older 60's non-cycling clutch having car) using AC only in the summer, that'd be the same component wear or close to it. So designing without the clutch and only driving it when you'd likely use a clutch anyways should give several years of service before needing major service, especially if good parts are used and new hoses, etc. to avoid contamination.

HH56 has pointed out that you'll have to pay attention to some plumbing issues, but you can't have it simple AND do something against the grain either.

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You're not tying up my time, it's too cold to work in the garage this time of year anyway.

As for the batteries idea, since you don't want to switch to 12v because of your Pertronix, you can do one of two things:
#1-Post the Pertronix unit for sale on here, I'm sure someone will buy it. Then convert to 12V. There's a simple and cheap HEI ignition that's a LOT better than Pertronix for half the price that can be done with the stock distributor, I'll show you how. AND, if it breaks down you can limp home on the points and get the parts at any parts store.

#2-Buy two of these 6V Optima batteries and put them in line on your battery tray. They should fit the length, and you'll be able to charge it with a 12V alternator, but still run 6V accessories off of it.




And there's a third option:
#3-Stop dreaming about a/c and just suffer in the heat.


Me, I went ahead and converted my '48 to 12V as I plan on putting a/c in it and don't give a rat's patootie if it's not a stock electrical system, I just want it to work.

I like the look of the stock distributor with the metal vacuum advance line instead of the pontiac HEI distributor (which i have parts all over the garage floor.) The optima is a solution, especially if i put it in one of those fake battery cases that holds a battery and hid them in there.


For me, i think it's going to come down to: convert to 12v if i decide to use a clutch or run as it is without a clutch. Best part is, i can swap the clutch with the motor in the car if i convert, so it's not that much extra work. Maybe drive it for awhile clutchless and if i convert to 12v, then swap the welded clutch for a good one and change the wiring to support turning it on and off. Rather get it done working half way then try to design it perfect and never get started on the project, and be stuck with option #3 :)

If nothing else, we've looked at a lot of automotive AC theory and design here, hopefully someone besides those few of us in here comes in here later and learns from all out research about batteries, up converters, etc.

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You can do HEI and keep the stock distributor, that's the whole point.

To drive the A/C setup you are going to need at least the bolt on crank pulley. If you try to just drive it off the waterpump your going to kill the bearing in the waterpump.

Packard had bolt on piggyback pulleys for the crank and water pump for the power steering equipped cars which converts the crank and waterpump to a dual pulley setup. This is what I am using to drive the A/C on my 327. I will mount the compressor were the power steering pump would have mounted, which is above the generator (or alternator in my case).

If you look at my project blog I cover the installation of those bolt on pulleys.

Turbo: I didn't realize you could HEI without switching distributors...that's news to me and interesting news at that. If/when i convert, that sounds like a great way to go.

Kev: That was the location i was considering and that's a good thought about the waterpump...i hadn't considered that and i don't want to kill my shiny new waterpump. I'll take a look over there and see what i can learn. Didn't someone talk about using some kind of ford damper to add that? And any idea where one of those packard two groove pulleys are available?

I have a couple piggyback extra waterpump pulleys, but do not have another crank one. Try the vendors and see if anyone has one. There are pretty common since every 51-54 era Packard with powersteering used one.

Thank you but it seems some luck as come my way. When we picked up Dan's 327 in california i recall leaving the power steering for someone else who had bought it. I didn't realize there were extra pulleys and i just checked out in the garage and the water pump has two pulleys and the balancer has an extra pulley on it. Looks to be thinner belts than the massive one my 50 288 has on it. So there's one problem already solved!

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Sure you can, start here: Ford TFI
The beauty of this system is that you throw the condenser in the glove box and if the TFI module goes out you just un hook it and put the condenser back in, and drive it home.