Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I eliminated the heat riser assembly on my 1956 Caribbean when I had a new exhaust system fabricated. Later I came to modestly regret that decision as I used the car year-round in the northeast and cooler weather performance prior to full warm-up was measurably poorer.

Am curious on what consists of a rebuild. Any photos of the rebuilt valve provided so you could see what was done? If it includes something along the lines of replacing the broken cast edge then problem solved but if not, ---

I don't have any valves to examine to see if possible or how feasible it would be to remove the shaft and flapper temporarily and then be able to get them back in and working. If they could be removed and replaced have wondered if the empty housing could be placed in a lathe and another recess cut in the broken end similar to that in the end receiving the tail pipe. IF another recess could be cut then a small 1/2" or so length of exhaust tubing MIGHT be able to be inserted to duplicate the broken off casting. Not sure if just a tubing end that fits in the manifold would be enough. If max tube size that could be safely cut is a smaller diameter than the old casting and it did not fit in the manifold properly more would be needed but I think any discrepancy in that part would be relatively easy to overcome with an extra sleeve over the tube or a high temp ring gasket.

Of course the big question would be whether repairing the valve would be worth trying. If the machining cost is significantly more than a new one then maybe not -- yet -- but like many other items now extinct or in short supply, worth thinking about. The NOS supply of that particular valve cannot last forever so unless someone repros or comes up with a modern alternative that fits or could be more easily adapted, it will become an issue. Spacers would be an easy solution but would not work well for some in cold places where the valve is more useful and others who might live in a desert would still want the valve for the stock look if nothing else.

Just got off the phone with Max Merrit. I can get a NOS Exhaust Control Valve for $150. These are not rebuilt I was mistaken, the webstore wrongly lists core charge. I think I an going to go this route, the one from PSW is 1/2 the price but the time that would be invested in cleaning it up and it possibly not having much life left in it I think is worth it since it is in a pain in the butt spot to get to.


Also talked to Kanter, they do not have any more in stock.

Packardfan, if it was my car I would not bother about replacing the heat control valve. San Diego weather should not cause a problem with it missing. Just my opinion.

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Ya I was thinking the same but since I have to install something new in there that has a good lip on it I thought I might as well just put in a brand new one for $150. Who knows how brittle the lip on the used one is.I was going to just buy the used one and cut the flapper out.

I. Cut the valve out and used the. Body.

The broken male end I put a piece of pipe in there.

It plugged the holes. But I used jb weld in the holes.

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Damn I should have just done that... Did you just grind the rest of the lip off and pressure fit a piece of pipe in the hole? Or did you do like HH56 said and grind out a recess for the pipe to slide up to?

Have any of you guys used these new style needle and seat that come in the Daytona rebuild kit? Or should I reuse the original?


I wonder why the accelerator pump wasnt working. There is no leather on there!!!

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I've been using Daytona kits with their unique type of fuel level control valve (needle and seat) for decades, nothing but total satisfaction.

When setting the float level the Daytona valves use a different technique versus the OEM valve.

To achieve the correct float level with an OEM needle and seat a tang on the float is bent/adjusted.

For the Daytona valve the float level is set by shimming the seat with more gaskets. At the closed position the tang on the float should contact the Daytona needle as close to the center as possible. If the tag presses off center by a significant amount there is a possibility the needle will be pushed into a cocked position that will be beyond the capability of the compliant flat disk. Daytona covers this in the instruction set, and if you follow the instructions the valve will work as advertised.

Shimming the seat of the fuel shut-off valve to achieve the correct float level is not a new invention, it goes back something like 100 years.

dp