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well i sent mine out to have a new cone or( used ) one put on and rebuilt. but i am hi bidder for the delco with the plunger so if one was better i would run that one just to be on the safe side.

OK engine done, brakes done, body is 1/2 striped, the interior is done, BUT NOW i don't have park on the trans i have drive i have not checked to see if have reverse. but i know i don't have park any common things too look at.

Usually the problem on 55s was that it wouldn't come out of park. Don't remember any complaints of not going in.


The park pawl is operated by a spring loaded lever cam arrangement on the shaft. Once park is selected, the lever pushes against the pawl to lift it up. If park gear is not in position to accept the pawl, the spring is at the ready until the gear can rotate so the pawl can enter the teeth of park gear. If a pin or the spring has broken or that assy has loosened it may not be pushing pawl up. If a different spring has broken or the stop pin that prevents the pawl from moving too far has broken (known issue), either of those could also be a cause. Since car has sat for a spell, also possible is the pawl is just gummed up and sticking.

Assuming the linkage and lever to shaft outside of trans is secure then about the only option is to remove pan and check things out. Once you do also pay attention to the pot metal lever operating the manual valve. Those had a tendency to strip the setscrew hole and loosen on the shaft. If there is much slop between detents or trouble in finding a detent, that would be the first place to look. The small pin at end of lever connecting the lever to the link to manual valve also bears checking to make sure it is intact.

YOU ARE A PACKARD GOD.... i was playing with the linkage on the out side of the trans for a hour trying to get it adjusted. and all linkage on the out side looks to be in good working shape. so let me get the pan down and see what is going on in there. thank you so much

At least by taking the pan off you will get a chance to give everything a good looksee, clean the screen and change fluid. Something that would be a good idea to do anyway -- even if you hadn't run into a problem.

got you and im on i will order up a trans kit dose that have a replicable filter???????? like late model cars and trucks????? or just a screen to clean

Just a mesh screen that should to be cleaned when the fluid is changed.

Good idea to drain the torque converter at this time too. This job requires the lower bell housing be removed. There are two drain plugs 180 deg. apart. Rotate the flywheel until one of the drain plugs is at the bottom, and remove this plug. Then, rotate the flywheel until the other plug is at the bottom and remove. Removing both plugs allows the fluid to drain better because of the venting. After fluid has drained, replace both plugs and lower bell housing. The type of fluid to use is better recommended by others on this site.

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May have misspoken: Removing the lower bell housings on the V-8s may require removing the starter too. There may be a removable plate on the bottom of the housing to provide access to the converter drain plugs. Still, a good idea to drain the converter at this time.

ok will do would it be better to pull the converter out to fill it or just let the pump fill it up on its own ??????? and what type of fluid should i use ??????

You do not need to remove the converter to drain its fluid.

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