Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Gene -

Something's fishy, there. To be honest, there's no Advanced Auto Parts stores close by, but I know they stock the copper-nickel stuff in the Youngstown, OH stores. It can also be ordered online; here's a link to their page for the 3/16" stuff:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy/products/113516-nickel-copper-alloy-brake-line-coil-3-16-x-25-by-nicopp-part-cnc-325-hardware-fasteners.html

Plug your own zip code into the "Check Availability" box on that page; the truth is out there.

I got the stuff for dealership stock from stores in my area that were affiliated with the Federated Auto Parts and Advantage Auto Stores chains; dunno if you have any of those in your area.

FWIW, here are the supplier part numbers for the four sizes that I'm aware of:

CNC-325 = 3/16" x 25'
CNC-425 = 1/4" x 25'
CNC-525 = 5/16" x 25'
CNC-625 = 3/8" x 25'

I think you'll find that most parts stores just slap a sticker with their own logo over the supplier's label. Some will go as far to assign their own unique part for inventory control and point-of-sale systems, but they should be able to cross-reference the CNC #s.

Yes, the copper-nickel tubing uses the same tube fittings as steel lines. New inverted flare nuts are available in short and long varieties; here are the supplier (Edelmann) part numbers:

121003 = 3/16" short
121030 = 3/16" long
121004 = 1/4" short
121040 = 1/4" long
121005 = 5/16" short
121050 = 5/16" long
121006 = 3/8" short
121060 = 3/8" long

...but I've never run across a long fitting used on an OE line.

Nope, no proportioning valves used back then.

Gene -

The junction block on the rear axle is listed in Gr. 1.608 in the Brakes section of the 35-41 parts book, from our archive. Roughly illustrated on page 9 and 11.

Curiously, the application listing shows it fastened by a simple 7/16-20x1" bolt - not drilled for a vent as with later years.

I've never had to replace one of these all-brass junction blocks. After letting them soak with some good penetrating oil, you should be able to unscrew the brake line fittings with the block in place on the car. However, I've found it best to put this block in a vise to remove/install the hose.

Thanks for the information and the link. Advance is having a 15% off sale if you buy it on-line before the 14th. The extra savings will help a lot.

THANKS AGAIN!

Gene

I realize that this is an older thread; it came up in a search while researching making new brake for my 41. I found the discussion to be highly informative, and was a big part in my decision to go with the NiCopp tubing.

This is the first time I've made brake lines. The NiCopp is a pleasure to work with and very easy to flare. It is also very easy to bend, and work with.

I did find that a good flaring tool makes a huge difference. The first one I purchased was a Cal-Van OTC 6502 Master Brake Flaring Tool Kit, and every flare was lopsided. I returned it. The one I wound up purchasing is a Ridgid 345. With this tool I was able to make really nice flares right off the bat.

My experience is exactly the same as Chad's. I spent days fussing around with steel tubing and a rental flaring tool trying to perfect double flares. Finally bought a Ridgid 345 and some NiCopp. This is the best way to go for a beginner. Just about foolproof.

I used copper nickle on my 54 Clipper. Brake lines and Gas lines. It is really easy to work with. A bit more expensive, but saves a lot of time.

I worked in an aerospace in a lab and made thousands of flares over the years. Some with simple flaring tools and others with expensive ones on copper, aluminum, mild & stainless steels.

At home, I have a Ridgid 345-DL and have been very impressed with the ease and quality of the flares it makes. As mentioned above for a double flare, make sure everything is square and get your depths right and you'll get a great flare every time.

I've worked on it a little each evening this week, after work, and most of the lines are made and in place.

I haven't been able to find a reliable spec or recommendation on how tight to torque the flare nuts? It seems that most things I have read say to finger tighten and then another ? turn or so, until fairly snug, without overtightening.

Does that sound appropriate? Is there a technique for doing them even and consistent?

The not-very-useful answer is, tight enough not to leak, not so tight as to damage the threads or fitting. If you need anything more than modest pressure with a short wrench, something is wrong. The better the quality of the flare (and the alignment of the tube to the fitting) and assuming a perfect seat in the fitting, the less additional tightening beyond "snug" is required.