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Hello,
New to site and new to Packard ownership. Just brought home a 1954 Clipper Deluxe and need to look into transmission. I have read various articles and it seems there are 2-3 possible transmissions:
1) Ultramatic
2) Gear Start Ultramatic
3) Twin Ultramatic (conflicting info, some say it was in late 1954 Packards)

How can I validate what transmission I have?
Thanks
Jim

In order to check the fluid level on the the original Ultramatics (1949 to mid-1954) you would have to go under the car (or put it up on a lift), as the cap and dip stick is located on the driver's side where the main body of the transmission meets the bell housing. In mid-1954 the Gear Start Ultramatic was introduced, and a long dip stick was installed on the driver's side of the oil pan, Thus, you could check the fluid once the hood was opened. The Twin Ultramatics were introduced with the 1955s (along with the V-8 engines). They have a dip stick on the passenger-side of the transmission.

Another easy check without opening the hood is look at the shift quadrant indicator. Regular Ultras read P-N-H-L-R and the Gear Starts will have an additional detent position indicated by a dot next to the H.

It is unlikely you have a later Twin Ultra in a 54 from the factory but it is possible a conversion was made after it left. The 54GS and 55TU units were very similar internally and functionally with a few minor valving refinements made between the two mostly to improve shift points for the higher horsepower V8 engine. There are physical requirements and changes needed to bolt the later TU internals and case onto the S-8 engine and mount in the chassis. As long as you have some specific parts -- 54GS bellhousing being the main item -- it can be done.

The forum webmaster is in the process of rebuilding the considerably improved 56 TU for the conversion to his 54 Clipper with Gearstart. You might check out the last dozen or so pages of his project blog for some additional insight on the internal differences between units and conversion work needed.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=203912&topic_id=57&#forumpost203912

Thanks much! It is the Gear Shift. Can basically add fluids via dip stick if top off needed?
Would you recommend changing over to the B&M Trick Shift fluid vs ATF?
Jim

You can top off if needed. Just have the engine idling and be in P or N when you check and add. If you prefer not to have the engine running it must be checked or rechecked within 30 seconds after the engine stops and before the converter has a chance to start draining back into the case..

Trick shift has some additional additives that the recommended modern type F or FA fluid which sort of duplicates the original type A fluid does not have. It has been mentioned as a help -- but hot a cure -- for one of the quirks such as the groan or "mooing" sound it can make when it does the transition into direct drive. The additives seem to give the hardened and glazed cork surfaces of the old direct drive friction plate a bit more grab so the clutch can clamp together without slipping and vibrating as much. The sound will not hurt anything but can be annoying. Another way to minimize the sound is just to let off the gas a moment as it makes the transition. In a rebuilt unit with modern friction materials I don't believe there is any benefit and almost any modern Dexron or Ford fluid is suitable.

Thanks. No moaning or other weird noise, only issue I have is it won't go into low and the other day when I pulled up behind a car at a traffic light and went to hit the gas the car wouldn't move. Shifted to Park, then neutral and to drive and it moved along. It does seem very sluggish when taking off, seems like it has to work hard to get moving. The engine doesn't rev up as if slipping, just sluggish.
Jim

I don't know how familiar you are with the original Ultramatic operation but it was essentially a two range transmission with a transition to direct drive possible in either range. It did not shift between gears. When you select H it starts and stays in high with the torque converter doing the work of multiplication which gives a bit of the benefits of a gear ratio change. Above a speed controlled by throttle linkage and adjustment, it transitions to direct drive which just locks out the torque converter and eliminates any slippage. Same happens in L or low range with the speeds anything happens just being a bit lower. The GS or TU is the same original Ultra with an added operator selected position where the unit does automatically shift between ranges from low to high and then transitions to direct drive. Shift points are again controlled by throttle linkage for the most part. Depending on which position the operator lever selects it will either work like the regular Ultra or in one position do the auto shift. If starting in conventional H range the acceleration is best described as leisurely and may be what you are describing as sluggish.

Is there any "slop" between detents? One of the issues of the TU is the pot metal lever which moves the manual valve in the control body is held to the shaft inside the case by a setscrew. The pot metal can strip which then lets the setscrew loosen and the lever slip on the shaft. I haven't heard anyone mention that on a GS but the arrangement is the same as the TU and since there were so few of the GS in the field compared to the TU it may be a possibility. If it is happening it is possible to be halfway between or even in a different range than you think you are.

The best way to check is to disconnect the horizontal rod on the drivers side of the transmission at the outer trans lever and then move the lever. There should be almost no movement at the end of the lever between detents. If there is the setscrew tightness is suspect and should be fixed before the internal lever fails to move at all.

G'day Jim(Ducky),
to PackardInfo, and I invite you to include your '54 Clipper Deluxe in the Packard Owner's Registry.

Thanks for the explanation, I will work on checking this, hopefully next weekend if I can find some time.
Jim

Yeap, I will get it registered. Pulling all the info together. Will have a question on the various tag numbers.

Door post: 5492 9418
Body Number: 5492 9418
Stamped number above heater: < C85742 >
Engine serial number: M319804

I am told this car is all original. Thoughts based on the numbers?

Jim